You haven’t truly been to Switzerland until you’ve ventured into cliffside restaurants and deserted valleys
Who gets it! On my second trip to Switzerland, I completely avoided the crowds at Jungfrau and Zermatt.
I explored a century-old restaurant perched on a cliff, spent a whole day listening to cowbells in a car-free valley, and found an emerald lake where locals swim. The soul of Switzerland isn’t in the popular tourist spots.
Ebenalp cliff restaurant — in the Appenzell region of northeastern Switzerland. Take the red cable car up to the 1,640-meter summit, then hike downhill to Berggasthaus Aescher — a century-old wooden hut built into a vertical cliff, once featured on the cover of National Geographic. Along the way, pass through the Wildkirchli natural cave chapel, where the sound of dripping water echoes off the rock walls. The entire hike is downhill and not tiring. About 1.5 hours by train from Zurich to Appenzell.
Mürren → Gimmelwald — car-free villages above Lauterbrunnen Valley. Hike downhill from Mürren to Gimmelwald. The sign says 35 minutes, but 1 hour is enough for walking and taking photos. Cowbells, wooden houses, and snowy mountains all in one frame.
Cauma Lake — a turquoise lake nestled in Alpine conifer forests, with a tiny forested island in the center. The water is relatively warm, making it one of the few natural lakes in Switzerland where you can swim as early as April. Almost no tourists, mostly locals paddling and playing in the water.
Appenzell town — a street of colorful family crests, with each wooden house painted with patterns of flowers, farmers, and family emblems, telling centuries-old family stories. You can visit the cheese factory to see the entire Appenzeller cheese-making process.
🗺️ 6-day off-the-beaten-path itinerary
Day 1 Zurich → 1.5-hour train to Appenzell (explore painted wooden houses + cheese factory) → stay in Appenzell
Day 2 Red cable car to Ebenalp → hike downhill to cliff restaurant → pass through Wildkirchli caves → stay in Appenzell
Day 3 Train to Lauterbrunnen → cable car to Mürren → hike downhill to Gimmelwald → stay in Mürren
Day 4 Walk through Lauterbrunnen Valley with 72 waterfalls → stay in Interlaken
Day 5 Train to Cauma Lake (swim, paddle, relax by the lake) → stay in Lucerne
Day 6 Lucerne old town + Chapel Bridge → return trip
🍜 Food
Appenzeller cheese — washed with a secret herbal brine during aging, with the recipe known by only two or three people. At the cliff restaurant, try rösti with sausage. For cheese fondue, order half Gruyère and half Vacherin, the local way.
📌 2026 new regulations to know
· Pass price increase: Starting January 1, 2026, Swiss travel passes will rise by an average of 5%. Half-fare cards increase from 120 CHF to 150 CHF. 3-day pass 254 CHF, 4-day 309 CHF, 6-day 399 CHF.
· Airport rules: Zurich Airport liquid restrictions relaxed — liquids in carry-on can be in containers up to 2 liters without a transparent bag. But insulated bottles must be empty to bring on board.
· Visa: Switzerland is part of the Schengen Area. Schengen visas are valid for entry. ETIAS is expected to launch in Q4 2026.
· Safety: Pickpocketing has increased on public transport and at attractions. Take photos of your passport for backup.
After returning from Switzerland, for a long time, no mountain anywhere else quite measures up. It’s not being picky — the views from the cliff restaurant and the sound of cowbells in the valleys really raise your standard for what “beautiful” means 🇨🇭