Dian-Gui Self-Driving Tour (Fifty-Eight)
During the 2019 Sichuan-Chongqing self-driving tour, the Jingangbei area in Beibei was closed for construction and renovation, so I couldn't enter. At that time, online introductions described it as a forgotten village, with empty streets and uninhabited houses, many tall yellow oak trees covered with fallen leaves and moss. It was a wild scenic spot favored by students for sketching and by literary youth exploring hidden gems. This time, returning was not about fulfilling a dream; after several years, I had forgotten about it. Now it has become a popular internet-famous scenic area, and while enjoying the visit, memories were awakened. Looking through travel notes, I realized it was indeed this place. The old houses here mainly date back to the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China period. Because it is located by the Jialing River, it developed during the Kangxi era as a water transport port for coal from Jinyun Mountain. During the War of Resistance, this area was a rear base, and with the foundation built by Lu Zuofu in Beibei, many institutions, societies, cultural festivals, and celebrities came to Beibei, including Liang Shuming, Lao She, and Weng Wenhao. The old printing factory site is at the village entrance, converted from an air-raid shelter, now open as a scenic spot with exhibitions inside. Many old houses have been renovated not only to restore their original appearance but also with creative touches, making both exhibitions and commercial operations unique and tasteful. The streets are no longer covered with fallen leaves, revealing the weathered yet clean bluestone slabs. Although the yellow oak trees in winter have sparse leaves, their dense branches form beautiful patterns in the air. I imagine the dense tree canopy in the hot summer would provide a refreshing shade. Here, besides dining, entertainment, and homestays, hot springs are also a main attraction. The Jialing River’s picturesque landscape attracts many visitors to the riverbank.
Downstream from Jingangbei, on the same side of the Jialing River, there is the Bajiao Diecui Viewing Platform on the mountain. Walking along the riverbank and then uphill is about twelve kilometers. The road uphill is somewhat damaged by mining trucks, but driving slowly is fine. Upon reaching the navigation point, experience suggests entering the village via a small path all the way to the end, which is the viewing platform. If there are many cars, be careful; it’s best to find parking in advance and walk less than a kilometer inside, as the road is narrow with no parking spots, and turning around is difficult. The viewing platform is on a cliff by the river, offering stunning views. Within sight, you can see eight large bridges spanning the Jialing River upstream. The canyon below is also magnificent, and the sounds of boat whistles on the river mixed with the rumble of trains crossing the bridges create a wonderful atmosphere. If caught in light fog, photo quality may be affected (the first picture is a promotional image). Returning to the city can be done without retracing the route, which is a bit shorter.
These two spots were unexpected finds. The main reason for coming to Beibei was to see cultural sites related to Lu Zuofu and the War of Resistance. These places are mainly around the old city and Southwest University’s Beibei campus, but parking is inconvenient, so public transport, taxis, or walking are recommended. The former site of the Chinese Western Academy has a rich exhibition; several buildings on campus are old structures from that time. A small villa houses a special exhibition on Lu Zuofu’s former residence, compensating for the missed visit to the “Lu Zuofu Memorial Hall” (closed for renovation). The “Four Pioneers of Rural Construction Gathering in Beibei Memorial Hall” is also on campus, showcasing the successful experiments in new rural construction by Liang Shuming, Yan Yangchu, Tao Xingzhi, and Lu Zuofu. The Liang Shiqiu Memorial Hall near Southwest University is also under renovation and temporarily closed. The former site of National Fudan University is across the Jialing River, with a large courtyard for parking and a rich exhibition. The Beibei Museum is also good, with a focus on dinosaur exhibits. There are also former residences of Lao She, Wu Mi, and Chen Wangdao in Beibei that I didn’t visit this time. I passed by in a hurry but will come again if I have the chance.
Beibei District · Chongqing