[Chile - San Pedro de Atacama].
The Atacama Desert is a vast, arid expanse along the western coast of South America, stretching roughly 1,000 kilometers from north to south between the Andes Mountains and the South Pacific coast. While it spans across neighboring countries like Peru, Bolivia, and Argentina, its vast main body is situated in northern Chile.
Bidding farewell to Bolivia, I ventured south into northern Chile, arriving at the tourist hub of San Pedro de Atacama, right in the heart of the desert. Crossing the border into Chile, the roads noticeably improved—becoming much smoother and cleaner. The endless expanse of ochre deserts, canyons, and badlands presented a striking contrast to the Bolivian landscapes I had just left behind, and the climate instantly shifted to bone-dry and scorching hot. Despite the town being highly commercialized for tourism, it oozes charm and character. With its dusty, unpaved streets and whitewashed adobe houses, it feels like stepping straight onto the set of an exotic movie!
The town itself is quite compact. The vast majority of visitors head out on day tours to nearby attractions and only return at night to crash, meaning the streets are practically deserted in the mornings. I spent a leisurely half-day strolling around, exploring the local church, the cemetery, and the archaeological museum. The intricate cactus-wood crafts sold in the local markets left a lasting impression on me! Stargazing tours are also incredibly popular here, thanks to the vast, flat desert terrain and lack of light pollution. There's even an astronomical museum in town, though it only opens its doors after dark. Eventually, completely defeated by the unforgiving sun, I retreated to my hostel to cool off in the pool...
Learning from yesterday's sweltering heat, I decided to play it safe and book some guided tours. Persuaded by a remarkably silver-tongued local agent offering sweet discount tactics, I impulsively signed up for three different excursions in one go, plotting a laid-back itinerary of one attraction per day.
Day one kicked off with a hike in the nearby Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley). The vivid crimson canyons and bizarre rock formations sculpted by wind erosion popped against the brilliant azure sky—the colors were so vibrant it almost looked like an artificial set! Unsurprisingly, this otherworldly landscape actually served as a filming location for the Star Wars movies! Next, we explored a natural salt mine where the ground was carpeted in salt crystals that sparkled brilliantly under the sun. At the guide's prompting, we pressed our ears in silence against the rock walls and could actually hear the sound of the salt crystals grinding against one another! We then hit up a few man-made, Instagrammable photo ops, including an abandoned bus, iconic desert signs, and panoramic viewpoints. The day wrapped up perfectly with a desert picnic, sipping Chilean red wine and snacking as we watched the sunset.
On the second day, I went swimming in Laguna Baltinache. There are quite a few salt lakes scattered across the desert area, but I personally think this one is hands down the most stunning. Sadly, it is slowly drying up due to receding groundwater levels in recent years! So everyone is strictly limited to swimming for only 15 minutes. The striking contrast of the pristine white salt crystals against the deep azure lake water creates a dreamy, picturesque scene. That being said, soaking in it is actually far from comfortable—the highly concentrated saltwater makes your skin sting like crazy! But much like the famous Dead Sea, the extreme buoyancy lets you effortlessly float on the surface, reading a book or scrolling through your phone. It was an incredibly unique experience, though rinsing off the sticky salt crust and changing clothes in a water-scarce desert afterward proved to be quite an ordeal!
My final tour took me back up to the high-altitude plateau at over 4,000 meters above sea level to witness Geyser del Tatio, the third-largest geyser field in the world. Since this meant driving all the way back toward the Bolivian border, pick-up was scheduled for a brutal 4:00 AM. Ridiculously enough, the guide forgot to pick me up—again! Fortunately, I had factored in a buffer rest day, so I rescheduled for the following morning. To make up for it, the agent promised a free ride to the airport after the tour so I wouldn't miss my afternoon flight! Up in the plateau area, the temperature plummeted. Basking in the glorious sunrise, the entire geyser valley was blanketed in billowing mist, looking like a mystical fairyland. After enjoying breakfast surrounded by this breathtaking scenery, we made our way back, stopping at a few lagoons to spot flamingos. We even crossed paths with a guanaco, a rather rare wild relative of the llama. Although I was initially fuming at the tour agent, soaking in all these magnificent natural wonders completely washed away every last drop of my frustration!