Stayed in a river view suite by the Yalu River, absolutely stunning
Dandong is a city where you only understand the meaning of "two worlds separated by one river" once you arrive.
My previous impression of Dandong was just two words: Broken Bridge and strawberries. After coming here, I found that this border town is much more layered than I imagined. Summer is especially suitable, with temperatures around 25-26°C, and the river breeze blows away all worries.
✦ Yalu River Broken Bridge · Recommended to visit at dusk
The Broken Bridge ticket costs 30 yuan, and it takes about 15 minutes to walk across. The bullet holes and rusted steel frame on the bridge are traces left from being bombed in 1950. As you walk, you realize that half of the bridge beneath your feet no longer exists, with the broken end hanging directly over the river.
The advantage of going at dusk is the good lighting. The sunset shines on the steel frame, casting long shadows. The silhouette of Sinuiju, North Korea, on the opposite bank is blurry in the twilight, and occasionally you can see one or two people walking along the shore.
There are binoculars for sale on the bridge, 10 yuan for a look at the other side. I didn’t use them, feeling that looking with the naked eye is more authentic.
✦ Hushan Great Wall · Climb to the top if you have good stamina
The Hushan Great Wall is the easternmost end of the Ming Great Wall, with a ticket price of 60 yuan. "One step across" is the closest point between China and North Korea, only a few meters apart, you could step across—though you can’t actually cross because of the barbed wire fence.
The steps up the Great Wall aren’t steep, but you’ll still sweat in summer. The view from the top is excellent; the Yalu River bends at the foot of the mountain, and you can clearly see the North Korean village across the river. Some fields are planted with corn, and one house’s chimney isn’t smoking.
I sat on the mountaintop for ten minutes when an elderly man came by, took out a thermos to drink water, and told me, "I’ve been here three times, and every time I look across, it feels unreal."
✦ War to Resist U.S. Aggression and Aid Korea Memorial Hall · Free but requires reservation
This memorial hall is free but requires advance online reservation. The entire hall is much larger than I expected, consisting of an exhibition hall, memorial tower, and panoramic painting hall.
The 360-degree panoramic painting of the Battle of Triangle Hill is quite shocking, with artillery sounds coming from all directions and the floor shaking beneath your feet. There’s a display case with a soldier’s letter home, the handwriting crooked and shaky, saying "Mom, I’m fine, don’t worry." I couldn’t hold back and stood in front of the case for a long time.
✦ Andong Old Street · One-stop for food, drinks, and shopping
Andong Old Street is a food street recreated in the style of the Republic of China era, with neon signs, vintage trams, cheongsam shops, and barbershops, full of atmosphere.
There are many kinds of food: rice cakes, cold noodles, grilled skewers, and steamed jelly. I tried a Korean-style bibimbap at one place, which was average, but the grilled squid from a nearby stall amazed me. The sauce was perfectly balanced, neither too sweet nor salty, and the squid was grilled until the edges were slightly crispy.
It gets crowded at night, so I recommend going after 7 PM when all the lights are on and it looks best.
✦ Yalu River Cruise · Closer view of the opposite bank than from the Broken Bridge
Taking a cruise to see both banks from the river is a completely different feeling than standing on the bridge. When the boat reaches the center of the river, it’s very close to North Korea, and you can clearly see people washing clothes and children playing on the shore.
The cruise lasts about 40 minutes per round, costing around 80 yuan. I suggest choosing the 3 or 4 PM departure when the sun isn’t too strong and the water’s reflection looks beautiful.
Some little things about Dandong:
Taxi rides are very cheap, usually around 10 yuan within the city. Dandong strawberries are in season now, and the roadside fruit stalls sell sweet and cheap Jiujiao strawberries—I can eat two pounds a day. The hotel front desk girl recommended a local barbecue restaurant by the river, where the Korean-Chinese owner personally mixes the dipping sauce, which is indeed more fragrant than others.
Dandong feels very slow-paced. The riverside is full of people strolling, elderly men playing chess, and aunties dancing in the square. This city doesn’t rush to show off anything; when you come, it just unfolds itself for you.
What are you curious about border cities? Ask me in the comments.
Accommodation
🏨 Dandong R&F Wanda Realm Hotel
Right outside is Wanda Plaza, just a few steps from Andong Old Street. The "Wanda Realm bed" is no joke—after a day of walking, lying on it feels like being caught by clouds.
🏨 Dandong Crowne Plaza Hotel
Right by the Yalu River, the river view rooms open to a view of the Broken Bridge. Swim in the indoor heated pool while watching boats slowly drift on the river through the glass.
🏨 Dandong New Andong Hotel
Very close to the Broken Bridge and Memorial Hall, within walking distance. The service details of this old brand hotel are excellent; the warm water the front desk gave me at check-in was just the right temperature—not too hot.
🏨 Dandong Freda Hotel
Rooms are large with wide views. After sweating climbing the Hushan Great Wall, I took a shower and collapsed on the big bed, looking out at Dandong’s city skyline—such a refreshing contrast.