Four-Day Journey: Huzhu · Datong · Menyuan — The Ethnic Charm of the Tu People and the Golden Sea of Flowers on the Plateau
Day 1: Entering the Homeland of the Tu People, Listening to the Echoes of "Hua'er" Songs
Setting off from Xining early in the morning, the wheels gently roll through the misty Huangshui River Valley as we head toward Huzhu County, the only Tu Autonomous County in China.
Our first stop is Weiyuan Town to visit the Tu Ethnic Homeland Park, a national 4A-level tourist attraction. This place is not only a window to understand Tu culture but also a living cultural museum. The colorful Tu costumes, the high-pitched and melodious "Hua'er" folk songs, the unique Anzhao dance, and the Wheel Autumn performances all exude a strong ethnic atmosphere. Strolling through the Ethnic Style Park feels like stepping into a flowing folk painting: embroidered eaves, painted wooden windows, carved beams and painted rafters—every detail tells the story of this ancient people's persistent pursuit of beauty.
Next, we head to Xiaozhuang Village, a national agricultural tourism demonstration site. This well-preserved natural Tu village fully presents the traditional residential layout and lifestyle. The village features a large cultural display area where visitors can participate in hands-on activities such as churning butter, brewing barley wine, and weaving colorful ribbons, experiencing the most authentic highland farming and nomadic blended lifestyle.
In the afternoon, we drive to Youning Temple, known in Tibetan as Guolong Temple, founded in the 32nd year of the Ming Wanli era (1604). It is one of the most important Gelugpa Tibetan Buddhist temples in northern Qinghai and is known as the "Mother of all Yellow Sect Temples in the North." Although damaged by war, the rebuilt halls remain magnificent and well-arranged. Its architectural painting style is unique, blending Han and Tibetan artistic essences. The murals are exquisite and delicate, the prayer hall solemn and serene, and the monks’ chanting is deep and prolonged, inspiring reverence.
We spend the night in Huzhu County town, with the lingering sound of "Hua'er" songs in our dreams, like the wind brushing through the barley fields.
Day 2: Climbing Laoye Mountain, Driving into the Golden Menyuan
The next day at noon, we set off for Datong Hui and Tu Autonomous County to visit Laoye Mountain, known as the "Little Wudang of the Northwest."
This lush, layered forested mountain range was once an ancient military fortress and is now a national forest park. The mountain is densely wooded and is one of the best-preserved natural secondary forest areas in Qinghai Province. At the summit stands a Guan Di Temple, surrounded by incense smoke. Every year on the sixth day of the sixth lunar month during the "Hua'er Festival," thousands gather here to sing "Hua'er" songs, their voices echoing through the valley, earning it the title of "Plateau Love Song Festival."
Opposite Laoye Mountain is the beautiful Niangniang Mountain, two peaks standing side by side, shrouded in mist, like guardians of the land. Walking slowly up the stone steps, halfway up you can still see the ruins of an ancient temple platform, where the remnants of walls hint at the once flourishing incense offerings.
In the afternoon, we take National Highway G227 northward, passing through the Dabanshan Tunnel, and suddenly the view opens up—a golden long plain embraced by snow-capped mountains appears: the Menyuan Basin!
This is one of the highest altitude rapeseed planting areas in the world, stretching nearly 100 kilometers east to west and about 20 kilometers north to south, with a patchwork of fields and rolling golden waves. From late June to mid-July, the vast fields north of Lenglong Ridge and south of Dabanshan are dyed a dazzling golden sea by hundreds of thousands of acres of rapeseed flowers. Under the blue sky and white clouds, bees and butterflies flutter, and the breeze ripples the flower sea like silk stretching to the horizon, breathtakingly beautiful.
We frequently stop along the way to take photos, wanting to capture this brilliant moment.
We spend the night in Menyuan County town, with the unforgettable golden glow still outside the window.
Day 3: Tracing Ancient Cities, Exploring the Secret Realm of Xianmi
On the third morning, we embark on a historical tour of Menyuan’s three ancient cities.
The first stop is Yong’an Ancient City, about 50 kilometers northeast of Menyuan County town. Built during the Qing Yongzheng period under the supervision of General Nian Gengyao, it was once a strategic stronghold guarding the Hexi Corridor. Although the city walls are weathered, the rigorous military defense layout is still visible. Standing on the city wall and looking out, with the Qilian Snow Mountains as a backdrop, one can almost hear the clatter of horse hooves and the beating of war drums.
Next, we visit Jinbatai Ancient City, built during the Tang Dynasty. It was originally a border town between the Tuyuhun and the Tang Dynasty, located at a key transportation junction. The site still preserves rammed earth city walls and watchtower bases, witnessing the turbulent history along the Silk Road.
Finally, we arrive at Chahan City (the original text’s "Macau Ancient City" appears to be a typo or transliteration error), believed to have been built in the Song Dynasty and abandoned in the Ming Dynasty. Though smaller in scale, it carries the historical memory of the agricultural and pastoral borderlands.
In the afternoon, we drive deep into Xianmi National Forest Park—Qinghai’s largest and most ecologically intact natural forest area, located at the junction of Lenglong Ridge and Dabanshan, known as the "Green Pearl of the Plateau."
The park integrates alpine canyons, strange peaks and cliffs, glacial relics, primeval forests, alpine meadows, and high mountain lakes, with extremely rich biodiversity. Along the way, you can see thousand-year-old spruces towering skyward, streams flowing through the forest, and distant snow peaks reflected in tranquil lakes, like a fairyland.
Moreover, this is the core area of the Huare Tibetan culture. Tibetan Buddhist temples are hidden in the woods, prayer flags flutter at mountain passes, herders’ tents scatter across the meadows, and ancient customs and mysterious beliefs are passed down through generations.
We stay overnight in a hotel inside the scenic area, falling asleep to the sound of pine waves and waking to birdsong at dawn.
Day 4: Enjoying the Morning Light of Xianmi Again, Fully Loaded for the Return
On the last morning, we enter the Xianmi forest again. The morning mist has not yet dispersed, sunlight slants through the treetops, dew sparkles like stars, and the air is fresh and sweet. Walking slowly along the wooden boardwalk, we occasionally see wild ibex leaping over cliffs, squirrels darting through the forest, and faint mist rising from the lake surface, as if in an untouched realm.
In this rarely disturbed pure land, time seems to slow down.
We are reluctant to leave quickly, wanting to take one more look at this pristine beauty.
At noon, we set off for the return journey, heading south along G227, looking back at the snow mountains and flower fields gradually fading behind us, filled with reluctance.
Travel Tips · Four-Day In-Depth Tour of Huzhu—Datong—Menyuan
Itinerary:
Xining → Huzhu (Tu Ethnic Homeland Park, Xiaozhuang Village, Youning Temple) → Datong (Laoye Mountain) → Menyuan (Rapeseed Flower Sea, Three Ancient Cities) → Xianmi National Forest Park → Xining
Best Season: Mainly summer (June–August), with early to mid-July as the golden period
- This is when the rapeseed flowers are at their peak, the climate is pleasant, and the grasslands are lush, ideal for photography and outdoor activities.
Core Highlights:
- Ethnic Charm: Immersive experience of Tu culture, "Hua'er" folk songs, traditional handicrafts;
- Natural Wonders: Hundred-mile rapeseed flower sea in Menyuan, Xianmi primeval forest, alpine lakes;
- History and Culture: Visiting three ancient city ruins, Youning Temple’s religious art, Huare Tibetan culture;
- Ecological Wellness: Forest oxygen bar, cool summer retreat, escape from the hustle and bustle.
Recommended Rating: Five stars
Suitable For: Families with children, photography enthusiasts, cultural travelers, nature explorers, study groups
Conclusion:
In these four days, we walked through the courtyards of Tu families and listened to the heartfelt singing of "Hua'er";
Climbed to the summit of Laoye Mountain and experienced the lively June song festival;
Rode through the golden sea of flowers and paused beneath ancient city walls silent for a thousand years;
Finally, deep in the Xianmi forest, we found inner peace.
This is not just a simple trip,
but a dialogue about colors, sounds, history, and soul.
If you yearn for that patch of gold,
If you want to hear the ancient ballads carried by the wind,
Then please write the Huzhu—Datong—Menyuan route
into your next summer plan.
Because some scenery blooms only once in a lifetime;
And some people are destined to meet themselves in that sea of flowers.