“Hayao Miyazaki didn’t lie to me. The most magical rooftops beyond Howl’s Moving Castle are here”
Whose childhood didn’t include watching Howl’s Moving Castle over and over? I used to think the whimsical, cozy, smoke-filled pointed rooftops in the animation only existed in the artist’s imagination. Until I stepped onto the uneven cobblestone streets of Colmar and looked up at rows of pastel-colored half-timbered roofs, I was instantly overwhelmed.
Hayao Miyazaki once traveled specifically to this Alsace town on the France-Germany border for inspiration. The layers of vintage rooftops here create an atmosphere that far surpasses the animated Howl’s Castle. Every home has flowers hanging from the eaves, and the canals perfectly reflect the fairy-tale roofs on the water. Strolling through the streets feels like stepping right into an animation storyboard, filling you with a deep sense of comfort.
This Colmar guide is based on my own experience. If you’re planning to visit, just follow along!
🚄 Transportation tips
Colmar has no international airport for civilian flights, so train connections are the best choice. The routes are very convenient:
Intercity arrivals
1. Direct from Paris: Take the TGV high-speed train from Paris Gare de l’Est. The trip takes about 2.5 hours to reach Colmar station. Early bird tickets start at €50. It’s best to book 1–3 months in advance on the French national rail SNCF platform, as prices rise significantly during peak season.
2. Transfer at Strasbourg: The top choice for touring the Alsace loop. Regional TER trains take only 30 minutes, with one-way tickets around €7. Trains run frequently, and you can also visit Strasbourg Cathedral along the way.
3. Enter via Basel Airport: Basel Mulhouse Airport near the border is about 60 km from Colmar. After landing, it’s easy to transfer by train or rent a car. This is ideal for travelers touring Switzerland and France.
Getting around town
The old town is very small and perfect for walking. Private cars are not allowed on the cobblestone streets.
To enhance your experience, you can rent a vintage bike for €8 per hour. Riding along the riverside paths really adds to the atmosphere. There’s also a sightseeing train for €15 and canal boat tours for €8–12. Viewing the colorful roofs from the water offers a unique photo perspective.
If you’re driving, park outside the old town. Daily parking costs about €15. Parking spots inside the historic center are very limited.
🏡 Accommodation options
For families with kids or couples, location is key. Here are three types of options to suit different needs:
1. Half-timbered guesthouses in the old town (highly recommended⭐)
No worries about parking or commuting. Most guesthouses have windows overlooking the flowing canal and rows of colorful roofs. Double rooms cost €80–150 per night. Many are century-old homes with small terraces where you can smell fresh bread from the corner bakery in the morning. Summer and Christmas seasons are busy, so book at least a month in advance.
2. Hotels near the train station
Great value for money. A 15-minute walk brings you to the old town center. These hotels have full amenities and suit travelers with flexible schedules who leave early and return late.
3. Unique half-timbered chateau hotels in the suburbs
If your budget allows, choose a castle winery guesthouse about 10 minutes by car from town. They have large gardens and vineyards, far from the crowds, perfect for a relaxing getaway.
💰 Budget reference (per person for 2 days and 1 night)
Costs vary depending on your style. Here are two sample plans:
Budget-friendly version
Intercity round-trip transport: €80–130
Accommodation: €90–140
Food: €70–90, including local specialties, street desserts, and small wine tastings at wineries
Activities: boat tours and museum tickets totaling €40–60
Local transport and small shopping: €30
Total per person: about €310–420
Comfortable in-depth version
Stay in a boutique riverside guesthouse in the old town, combined with winery tours on the Alsace Wine Route and castle experiences. Total budget per person: €600–800.
Note: During the Christmas market, prices double. Plan your budget carefully before traveling.
🍷 Food highlights
Colmar blends French and German cultures, with rich and flavorful dishes. There are no overly exotic ingredients, and the local specialties are well worth trying:
Local signature dishes
Tarte flambée: The local national snack. A thin, crispy crust topped with onions, cream, and bacon, full of aroma. Prices range from €12–18.
Choucroute garnie: A classic Alsace dish. Salty sauerkraut stewed with smoked sausages and pork knuckles, served with potatoes. Perfect for autumn and winter trips.
Baeckeoffe: Beef and lamb baked slowly in a ceramic pot with potatoes and vegetables. Rich in flavor, it’s a beloved local comfort food.
Desserts and drinks
Kouglof traditional cake: €6 per serving. A buttery cake with dried fruit aroma, a signature Alsace pastry.
Riesling white wine: Colmar is in a famous wine region. Alsace Riesling is crisp and pairs perfectly with local dishes. You can buy small tastings at street wineries.
Tip: Riverside seats often charge an extra 30% view service fee. Check the menu before ordering.
📸 Must-do recommendations (immerse yourself in Miyazaki-style rooftops)
Day 1: Fairy-tale old town tour
Head straight to the old town center in the morning. First stop: Pfister House, built in 1537. This Renaissance building inspired Howl’s house. Its octagonal tower and painted roof, with walls covered in exquisite murals, look stunning in the late afternoon side light.
Continue wandering along Tanner’s Street and the House of Heads. The House of Heads features 105 unique face sculptures on its exterior, making it a memorable architectural landmark.
In the afternoon, visit Little Venice, Colmar’s soul landmark. The winding canal runs through the old town, with colorful half-timbered roofs reflected in the water and flowers blooming along the banks. Take a boat tour from the fishermen’s wharf. The boatman will share stories behind the old buildings.
In the evening, visit Saint Martin’s Church. Its 78-meter-high Gothic spire contrasts sharply with the soft rooftops nearby. Climb the bell tower for a panoramic view of the town’s rooftops.
Day 2: Leisurely nearby exploration
If you have time, drive to Eguisheim on the Alsace Wine Route. The village is full of the same Alsace half-timbered houses, with fewer tourists and vineyards surrounding the streets—perfect for quiet walks and photos.
You can also visit the Unterlinden Museum, which houses medieval altar paintings and local folk artifacts, offering a full understanding of the town’s long history.
💡 Travel tips
1. Most museums in Colmar are closed on Mondays. Confirm opening hours for Saint Martin’s Church and other exhibitions to avoid disappointment.
2. The best photo times are 8 AM and the golden hour at sunset. The old town is nearly empty, the water is calm, and the light on the rooftops is at its best.
3. Most shops close all day Sunday. Plan souvenir and local wine shopping on weekdays.
4. France uses European round-pin plugs. Bring adapters. Prices in town are relatively high, so carry some cash.
5. The old town’s cobblestone streets are uneven. High heels are difficult to walk in. Choose comfortable flat shoes.
I highly recommend all Miyazaki fans visit Colmar. The magic of Howl’s Castle is just animation, but here you can touch the real, flower-filled colorful roofs, flowing canals, and the slow-paced charm of this small town. You don’t need to travel to a distant magical world. Just looking up here, you’ve already stepped into your own fairy tale.