An Artistic Journey on Naoshima, a Small Island in Shikoku, Japan

Hong Kong residents travel to Japan three to four times a year. My last visit was over a decade ago—to Kyoto and Nara. I avoid Tokyo because the hustle and bustle of places like Shibuya and Ginza remind me of the stress from work trips. This time, I made my first visit to Kagawa Prefecture in Shikoku. On a weekday afternoon in the main street of Takamatsu, the sparse pedestrian traffic and quiet storefronts felt like a European weekend morning. It was a different world—calm but not idle. Among the tranquility, Naoshima stood out as the most memorable. I took two trips from Takamatsu Port to the outlying islands, one to Naoshima and one to Shodoshima. The trip to Naoshima was primarily to see the Chichu Art Museum, designed by architect Tadao Ando (1941-), hidden in the basement. I had booked the visit months in advance online. Ando's fair-faced concrete architecture, using straight lines and triangles, exposed steel frames, and large glass panels, exudes a minimalist Zen aesthetic but with meticulous craftsmanship. He often uses skylights for natural lighting, creating a low-key yet beautiful and practical design. Ando, a self-taught architect, has works across Japan and internationally, not confined to any traditional Japanese style. Besides the Chichu Art Museum, his works include the Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum in Matsuyama, commemorating historian Ryotaro Shiba (1923-1996) and haiku poet Shiki Masaoka (1867-1902). Many have imitated his ideas, such as the Clement Hotel in Takamatsu, though the difference in quality is evident. Hong Kong lacks Ando's works, but the design of the columbarium in Diamond Hill somewhat resembles his style. Yayoi Kusama (1929-), who had an exhibition at Hong Kong's M+ in 2023, has her works featured in the Setouchi Triennale. On Naoshima, an hour's ferry ride away, her outdoor installations are ubiquitous. Her large 'Pumpkin' sculptures, taller than people, are placed by the sea without any barriers. Her signature polka dots are so pervasive that they even cover bus bodies, pier glass doors, ferry hulls, and restroom screens on the deck! Naoshima Town has gone to great lengths to promote tourism and leave a lasting impression. The relaxed pace of the trip was rich and exciting. Spending a day on this small island felt like being in a paradise.