If you're heading to Mohe, the Huzhong loop in the Greater Khingan Mountains is worth a detour.
-4.3°C is the annual average temperature in Huzhong, while -53.2°C is the historical record low. The town has earned the title of "Cold Pole," and the numbers alone sound freezing. The day I arrived in late September was sunny, but as soon as the wind picked up, I couldn't take my gloves off, and my nose went numb in no time.
The road to Huzhong
Heading north from Jagdaqi along the G111 Jiamo Highway, pass Huyuan Town and turn onto the S218 provincial road to head deeper into the northwest. The sides of the road are initially grasslands and farmland, followed by endless Dahurian larch forests. By late September, the larch trees have started to turn yellow, slope after slope, while the birch trees recede into the background, leaving behind their clean, white trunks. I didn't dare keep the car window open for long; my hands would go stiff after just a moment.
Autumn arrives early in this region. By mid-to-late September, the higher peaks may see their first snowfall, while the lower areas are still a tapestry of colorful autumn foliage. Locals mark the seasons by the weather, and once the "Five-Flower Mountain Festival" arrives, the number of people carrying cameras increases. Huzhong District is located on the northern foothills of the Yilehuli Mountains, with an average elevation of over 800 meters. There are more than 800 peaks over 1,000 meters within its borders, and the forest coverage rate is 96%. In the past, this was a logging hub, but after logging was halted, it gradually shifted toward eco-tourism. You can still see some old-fashioned logging trucks and tractors by the roadside, which serve as a footnote to the transformation of the forest region.
Dabaishan and its surrounding forests
Dabaishan, with an elevation of 1,528 meters, is a peak in the northern section of the Greater Khingan Mountains and is known as the "Peak of Khingan." A short drive south from Huzhong Town brings you to the Baishan Scenic Area. Several retired logging trucks are displayed near the entrance, resembling an open-air forestry exhibition. Climbing to the heights, you are greeted by a vast, rolling sea of forest beneath your feet, where the golden yellow of the larch is interspersed with the deep green of creeping pines, creating a tranquil scene. This area is home to cold-temperate virgin forests, dominated by larch with birch as an accent. In late September, the mountain forests are interwoven with five colors, offering a rich, layered view of the autumn foliage.
The Huzhong Nature Reserve is located within these mountains. Established in 1963, it protects the virgin larch forests and the wildlife within them, and it is also the source of the Huma River. There is a small museum in the reserve that displays moose specimens and early logging tools, clearly illustrating the transition from logging to forest conservation. Locals say that in the past, the chants of the loggers could drown out the wind, but now that the mountains have quieted down, the birds and animals are gradually returning.
Around the town, there are also the Cangshan Stone Forest, the rock paintings at Longshoudong, and a park where reindeer are raised. You can't see it all in one day, so you'll need to pick and choose. The Cangshan Stone Forest is a provincial geopark where stones stand along the ridge, distributed more sparsely than in typical stone forest scenic areas. The Longshoudong area features 10,000-year-old painted rock art, but it is in a remote location, so be sure to ask for directions before you go. If you prefer peace and quiet, a walk along the Huma River is also a good option; the water is freezing to the touch, and you can occasionally see unfrozen sections at the river bends.
Lodging and dinner
Huzhong Town is small, surrounded by mountains on all sides, with a section of the Huma River valley in the middle. The food is mostly Northeast home-style: stews, mushrooms, wood ear, and cold-water fish. A bowl of hot soup is very comforting when the weather is cold. Most places to stay are town guesthouses and family inns; while the conditions aren't luxurious, they have the advantage of good heating. If you want more comfortable accommodations, there are more options in Jagdaqi.
If you are entering Huzhong in late September, don't skimp on a down jacket, hat, and gloves. The temperature difference between day and night is significant, and the wind is harsher than in the city, though it doesn't feel too cold when the sun is out during the day; the temperature can fluctuate by more than 10 degrees in a single day. The forest roads are winding, so don't rush if you are driving yourself. Some sections are gravel roads, which can be slippery when it rains. You usually need to obtain permits for the core area of the nature reserve, so check the daily opening arrangements before heading into the mountains. This area is a key zone for fire prevention, so do not use open flames in the forest.
Take a train to Jagdaqi Station and then transfer to a bus to Huzhong, which takes over three hours; the journey from Jagdaqi Airport is about the same. The attractions in Huzhong are scattered, and there are no public buses connecting the Baishan Scenic Area, the Cangshan Stone Forest, and Longshoudong. Plan your vehicle and route before you set off, otherwise you will spend most of your day on the road. Take care of this step first, and leave the rest to the weather.