Chikan at Night: When the Lanterns Light Up, I Become the Returning Heiress Under the Arcades
Chikan during the day is unhurried, much like an old film reel turning slowly.
But when night falls, it reveals a completely different face.
As evening sets in, the lanterns are the first to wake.
Around dusk, the red lanterns under the arcade corridors light up one after another. It isn't a glaring neon red, but a warm glow filtering through the paper shades, painting the grey brick walls with a mellow hue. The flagstone streets reflect the lanterns' glow, looking wet—not from rain, but because the street sprinkler just passed by at sunset, and the summer ground hasn't fully dried yet.
Dixi Road, packed with tourists during the day, suddenly empties out at night. The elderly man in a tank top has folded away his rattan chair, the auntie selling fried tofu corners has turned off her oil wok, and the ding-ding trams have parked in the depot. The entire street seems to have put on a new face, so quiet that you can hear the faint creaking of lanterns swaying gently in the wind.
We chose this exact moment for a photoshoot. The Republican-era costumes we rented in the afternoon finally found their perfect use—I was dressed as a "returning heiress" in a simple qipao, my hair styled up and pinned with a pearl hair clip. My friend joked that I looked like I had just stepped off the pier, walking into Chikan with a leather suitcase in hand.
Truth be told, the photoshoot was a spur-of-the-moment decision.
While strolling through the arcades in the afternoon, we spotted signs for "Republican-era Costume Rental" outside several shops. Upon asking, we found out they had qipaos, changshans, and student uniforms. There were even a few sets matching the returning heiress vibe. Renting a set only cost a few dozen yuan, and we could wear it until 9 PM. The owner, a local uncle, helped me adjust the frog fasteners on the qipao and said in Cantonese, "Many people rent these for photos; they look even prettier at night." He was absolutely right.
We shot one set during the day and another at night. Two kinds of light, two completely different vibes.
At 3 or 4 PM, the light slanted in from the west, stretching the shadows of the arcade's Roman columns across the ground. I stood under the corridor, with sunlight filtering through the arches, illuminating the velvet texture of my qipao and highlighting the jacquard patterns on my cardigan. My friend asked me to walk slowly from one end of the arcade while she captured candid shots from the other—paired with the grey brick walls and vintage signboards, the scene truly looked like a wealthy heiress just returning from the South Seas, strolling down the street in front of her own home. The beauty of daytime shooting lies in the crisp details: the pattern of the qipao, the knit texture of the cardigan, the luster of the pearl clip, and the textures of the flagstone path were all perfectly captured. The lighting is ample, so even a smartphone camera does the job effortlessly.
But what truly made me feel it was "worth it" was the night set.
Once the lanterns lit up, the lighting changed entirely. Gone was the harsh, direct sunlight, replaced by a warm, soft, yellow glow cascading from above and the sides—as if someone had lit a circle of candles around you. I stood at the curved corner of Dixi Road, backed by a row of lanterns stretching into the distance, their light casting hazy reflections on the bluestone slabs. My friend told me to stand sideways and gaze into the distance without looking at the camera—she said that in that moment, I truly looked like I was waiting for someone.
The crowds thinned out significantly at night, meaning no queues or waiting for photo spots. Occasionally, we'd pass by one or two tourists also dressed in Republican-era clothing; we'd nod and smile at each other, as if, on this particular night, everyone had silently agreed to travel back to the same era. It was a magical feeling—wearing the attire of a returning heiress, walking the very paths that overseas Chinese walked a century ago, with the arcades from the Republican era overhead and the century-polished flagstones beneath your feet. It wasn't time travel; rather, it felt like the memories inherently belonging to this place had been gently awakened.
The lantern light casts a natural soft-focus effect on the face, making your skin look flawless even without any photo editing. If you bring a small lantern or a folding fan as a prop, the shots will look even more cinematic. We shot until past 9 PM when the arcade street was nearly deserted. We sat on the stone steps under the corridor to rest, flipping through the day and night photos on our phones—the daytime shots looked like postcards, while the night ones looked like movie stills.
📌 Tips for Republican-Era Costume Photoshoots
Rental Information:
There are shops inside the scenic area offering Republican-era clothing rentals, mostly clustered around Dixi Road and the North Gate entrance.
Styles include qipaos, changshans, student uniforms, returning heiress aesthetics (velvet qipao + cardigan/shawl), and Hanfu. Prices range from 50 to 100 RMB per set (including simple hair and makeup), and the rental period usually lasts until 9 PM.
It's recommended to rent your outfit in the afternoon. Take a set of outdoor shots by the arcades before dark, and another night set after the lanterns light up. Getting two entirely different vibes for the price of one rental is far more cost-effective than just shooting during the day.
Outfit Suggestions:
Key elements of the returning heiress style: A velvet or jacquard qipao. For colors, you can opt for rich, textured dark shades like emerald green, burgundy, navy blue, or champagne gold. I personally went with off-white, which looks youthful and pairs beautifully with a shawl and pearl accessories. Styling your hair in an updo is highly recommended.
Bringing your own clothes is also an option, just plan your color palette in advance—a light-colored qipao pops beautifully against a red lantern background, while a dark changshan is perfect for dramatic, story-driven silhouettes. Avoid overly modern sneakers or backpacks; opt for vintage leather or cloth shoes instead.
Props: Folding fans, leather suitcases, books, small lanterns, and pearl handbags all work wonderfully. There are also shops in the scenic area selling paper lanterns and folding fans at affordable prices.
Recommended Shooting Times:
Day Session: 3:00 PM - 5:00 PM. The light slants in from the west, creating the best layers of light and shadow under the arcades while highlighting the texture and color details of the qipao. The ample lighting makes it easy to shoot with a smartphone.
Night Session: 7:30 PM - 9:00 PM. Once the lanterns are fully lit, the crowds thin out drastically, the light turns soft, and the atmosphere hits its peak. The lantern glow provides a natural soft focus on the face, making your skin look flawless without editing. If you're using a DSLR, a large aperture lens (like a 50mm f/1.8) is recommended. For smartphones, turn on night mode and lean against a railing or stone pillar to stabilize your shots and reduce blur.
Recommended Photo Spots:
The curved corner of Dixi Road: Shoot elongated shadows during the day and the depth of the lanterns at night. Capture both times; the results are strikingly different.
Under the arcade corridors: Stand inside the arched doorway and shoot outward. The light filtering in from outside creates a natural frame.
The porch of the Guan Clan Library: Exquisite details, perfect for close-up portraits.
The banks of the Tan River: At dusk, before it gets completely dark, the river and sunset glow make for a stunning backdrop for silhouettes.
By the tram tracks: The out-of-service ding-ding tram parked on the tracks, bathed in lantern light, exudes a strong vintage vibe.
📌 Practical Information: Night Edition (Including Performance Info for Reference)
Lighting Hours
Lanterns and scenic area lights turn on around 19:00 (sunset is later in summer, so this adjusts seasonally) and turn off at about 6:00 the next morning.
Best time for a night tour: 19:30 - 21:30. The lanterns are fully lit, the crowds have mostly dispersed, and the ambiance is at its best.
Key Areas for Night Tours
Dixi Road Arcade Street: The silhouettes of the arcades under the lantern light are perfect for evening strolls and photography. The curved corner is a classic spot—take a set of photos at dusk and another at night for comparison; the afterglow and the glowing lanterns offer entirely different vibes.
By the Tan River: The river breeze is refreshing, and you can see the lights and their reflections from the opposite bank. If you didn't ride the sculling boat during the day, you can snap a few shots by the shore at night—the reflections on the water paired with the lantern glow create a much richer atmosphere than daytime.
Rong'an Building: Once lit up at night, it offers a great panoramic view of the ancient town. I recommend visiting once at dusk and again when the lanterns are fully illuminated.
Tram Station: The out-of-service ding-ding tram parked on the tracks makes for a fantastic backdrop under the lantern light. By day, it’s a bustling transport vehicle; by night, it’s a quiet photo prop. Both vibes are absolutely worth capturing.
Nighttime Dining
Some dessert shops (tong sui) and teahouses inside the scenic area stay open past 10 PM. Highly recommended are the tangerine peel red bean soup, green bean soup, and imperata cane water to cool down and quench your thirst. Sit down for a bowl after your photoshoot and review your pictures before heading out.
There are a few bistros on Dixi Road where you can grab a glass of local rice wine or beer and rest your feet while enjoying the river breeze.
If you're craving hot food, step outside the scenic area to the food stalls (dai pai dongs) in Chikan town, where you’ll find late-night options like duck porridge, stir-fried beef noodles (beef chow fun), and grilled oysters.
Nighttime Activities within the Scenic Area (For reference; participate based on your itinerary)
· Fire Show* (Intangible Cultural Heritage molten iron splashing + fireworks): Around 20:00 - 20:30 at the open-air plaza by the Tan River. Molten iron at 1,600°C is splashed into the night sky—it’s absolutely breathtaking. No reservations are needed on weekdays, but it’s best to arrive 20 minutes early to snag a front-row spot. Even if you don't watch it, hearing the distant crackle of the iron sparks while taking photos serves as the perfect background soundtrack to a Chikan night.
· The Journey Home* Live Water Show: Around 21:00 - 21:30 at the water stage on the Tan River. It tells the story of overseas Chinese returning home, combining lights, the water surface, boats, and fireworks. No reservation is required, but getting a riverside spot early is recommended. It perfectly matches the "returning heiress" theme, too.
Indoor Theaters (Advance booking required via the official mini-program, limited to 2 sessions daily): Shows include *Set Sail*, *Red Wedding*, *Soaring into the Clouds*, and *Modern Times*, lasting about 40 minutes per session. If you’re interested, remember to book early as spots are limited.
Quick Tips for Night Tours
Mosquitoes are abundant on summer nights, so mosquito repellent is a must.
The riverside and flagstone paths are dimly lit at night, so watch your step, especially since long strides can be tricky in a qipao or changshan.
If you aren’t staying within the scenic area, keep an eye on the times for the last bus or high-speed train. Shows end around 22:00, so plan your return trip in advance.
If you’re staying inside the scenic area, take your time exploring without rushing. The lanterns usually stay lit until around 23:00, giving you plenty of time to finish your photoshoot and leisurely stroll back to your accommodation.