Senior Romance: Waiting for the Sunset in Naxos, Greece.
Married to my husband for over forty years, we used to constantly hustle just to make ends meet. Neither of us is particularly romantic by nature, so we never made a fuss about celebrating our wedding anniversary (honestly, I doubt he even remembers the date). Now, every year at the end of June, our eldest daughter plans a trip and accompanies us to vacation on the Greek islands, where we are finally learning how to embrace a leisurely, romantic lifestyle.
This time, we visited Naxos, the largest of the more than 200 Cyclades islands (which also include Santorini and Mykonos). On the evening of our anniversary, around 5 PM, we parked our rental car by the town pier and took a seaside stroll towards the path connecting to the islet of Palatia. We slowly made our way up to The Portara, widely known as the Temple of Apollo. The unpaved dirt path was completely overgrown with weeds—the hike itself was absolutely zero percent romantic. Reaching the top of the small hill, we were greeted by crumbling ruins with nothing left but a giant marble door frame; honestly, I was a bit underwhelmed at first. But when I looked around, the panoramic view was simply breathtaking. Clear blue skies, fluffy white clouds, the crystal-clear Aegean Sea, picturesque whitewashed houses, blue-domed churches, and scattered boats—it was a feast for the eyes. I couldn't stop snapping pictures on my phone. In the blink of an eye, we'd spent over two hours under the scorching sun. The sun hadn't fully set yet, but the sky was starting to dim. Since there were no streetlights, our daughter worried the rugged path would be too dangerous for us in the dark and urged us to head back down. By the time we reached the bottom, it was already 9 PM. The seaside sunset was absolutely stunning. Our daughter had booked a waterfront restaurant, and dining by candlelight while taking in the night view with the sea breeze gently brushing against our faces felt incredibly romantic, even if it was just the three of us. To me, having my family by my side is the ultimate romantic bliss.
After resting for a day at our rental house, we drove to the 13th-century medieval Venetian-style castle, Kastro, in the city center. Right at the entrance stands the Tower of Glezos, the only surviving building boasting the original Venetian-Cycladic architectural style. Inside the castle complex, there's a 17th-century church, two museums (the Archaeological Museum of Naxos and the Venetian-style Della Rocca-Barozzi Museum), and multiple scenic viewpoints. Exploring the area is free, except for the Della Rocca-Barozzi Museum, which charges a €6 entrance fee per person. It's a massive place with winding alleys, cobblestone streets, charming little shops, and restaurants.
After wandering around for the better part of the day, we headed over to Chora (the Greek word for the main town/city center). We strolled around the old town, haggling for souvenirs, and grabbed a local Gyros pita on a whim. I personally prefer the pork version, though chicken and lamb are also available. At €6, the portion was huge and came loaded with salad and fries, so we shared one to save room for other treats. I highly recommend the made-to-order, freshly fried Greek mini doughnuts (loukoumades) smothered in various toppings. You can even add ice cream on top! My personal favorite is cinnamon and honey. A serving of 10-12 pieces only costs around €4-5. We also tried some made-to-order rolled ice cream. We ordered one espresso flavor and one pistachio, which came to €17 in total—not exactly cheap. But watching the artisan transform freshly brewed hot espresso into beautiful ice cream rolls right before our eyes felt like absolute magic. Both flavors weren't overly sweet and were a total lifesaver in the blistering heat.
We also visited the Temple of Demeter in Sangri, a relic dating back to the 6th century BC. Tickets were €5 per person, which included access to the Giroulas Archaeological Museum at the foot of the hill, showcasing excavated artifacts. The site itself is perched on a hill, and the rugged, uneven mountain path made for a tough climb under the blazing sun. I was drenched in sweat, and it was definitely quite a challenge for my chubby, aging little body! If it weren't for my deep passion for history pushing me forward, I probably would have given up halfway. But once we reached the top and laid eyes on the ancient ruins, the quaint village, the monastery, and the church, it felt like traveling through time. I was in awe of how our ancestors managed to build such a magical place without any modern machinery. The museum at the bottom of the hill is also definitely worth a visit.
Of course, we also drove around to check out different beaches, all boasting crystal-clear waters and powdery fine sand. We visited Agios Georgios beach right in the city center and drove a bit further out to Agios Prokopios, which has more upscale amenities. We skipped Mikri Vigla, a hotspot popular with younger crowds; it's a water sports paradise but not exactly suitable for two old folks like us. Besides, our rental house came with a private pool, so we could easily enjoy a swim and sunbathe without even stepping out the door.