A Day Without a Watch: Strolling with Hokusai and the Mountains in Obuse
Today, I deliberately chose a route free from the constraints of time. I tucked my watch into my coat pocket and set out with a heart yearning to slow down. Boarding the Nagano Electric Railway, my destination was Obuse.
As the train slowly pulled into the station, I looked up to see the skyline already setting the stage for the day. The Five Peaks of Northern Shinano stood quietly in the distance: Mount Iizuna, Togakushi Mountain Range, Mount Madarao, Mount Myoko, and Mount Kurohime. Like old friends lined up in a row, these peaks, which I once conquered with my snowboard, greeted me in the crisp winter air.
🍂 Ganshoin Temple: Hokusai's Soul Above
From the station, I strolled to Ganshoin Temple, just in time for the 10:30 AM guided tour. With my AirPods Pro 2 on, I activated the new real-time translation feature, marveling at the harmony of technology and history in that moment. Entering the main hall, I instinctively held my breath as I looked up—there it was, Katsushika Hokusai's late masterpiece, "The Great Phoenix." It wasn't just decoration; it was a declaration: even in the later stages of life, creativity can burn brilliantly.
🌲 Jokoji Temple: A Miniature Togakushi Shrine's Serenity
Next, I headed to Jokoji Temple, often described as a "miniature Togakushi Shrine," a description that couldn't be more fitting. The stone steps leading to the main hall were flanked by towering ancient trees. Winter sunlight filtered through the branches, and each step felt like walking into a path forgotten by time.
🍚 Chikufudo: The Gentle Warmth of Chestnut Rice
For lunch, I unhesitatingly stepped into Chikufudo and ordered their signature "Mountain Home Set Meal," with the star of the show being the chestnut rice. The sweetness of the chestnuts was subtle, not overpowering, yet irresistibly inviting, much like Obuse itself—gentle, quiet, and deeply memorable.
🐉 Hokusai Museum: Dragons and Phoenixes Dancing in the Sky
The afternoon was reserved for the Hokusai Museum. This season's theme was "Heavenly Dancing Beasts: Dragons and Phoenixes." The lines on the paper seemed to leap and swirl, their energy as light as if they were dancing in the air. Witnessing Hokusai's world, it was hard to believe these works came from an artist who constantly pushed his own boundaries, proving that art truly knows no age limits.
🌰 Chestnut Lane: Walking on Winter Memories
Leaving the Hokusai Museum, I wandered into Chestnut Lane. The path, paved with chestnut wood, was covered with a thick layer of straw due to the winter snow, making each step soft and warm. Along the way, I passed the residence of local magnate Takai Kozan, whose deep friendship with Hokusai added an irreplaceable cultural weight to this small town.
🛍️ Suzaka AEON MALL: A Test of Wallet Discipline
On the way back, I detoured to Suzaka, where a large shopping mall newly opened in late 2025. Browsing through Workman and Murasaki Sports, I marveled at the cost-performance ratio of Japanese outdoor gear while watching my increasingly thin wallet shed silent tears. A gentle reminder to myself: Japan offers tax-free shopping, not free shopping. Desires must be kept in check!
Today, there were no rushed trains or pressured schedules—just art, mountain views, the scent of chestnuts, and an entire day dedicated to my own slow rhythm.