We were sitting in hot water under the open sky. It was −3°C.
Steam rose and melted into the dark sky. The water was so hot that the first few seconds were almost painful. But then the body surrendered. And we just looked. At the mountain. At the lake. At our own breath in the cold air.
It wasn't a spa day. It was something else. Something for which there is no exact word in English.
In Japan, it’s called an onsen (温泉). And it is, perhaps, the best thing humanity has invented in a few thousand years.
What is an onsen — and why it’s not just a "hot bath"
An onsen in Japan is a natural hot spring with mineral-rich water. Baths can be outdoor (rotenburo), indoor, public, or private—located in ryokans and hotels. It's a vital part of Japanese relaxation culture.
But the main thing is the ritual. An onsen is not just a way to relieve fatigue, but a special ritual and a part of everyday Japanese life. Many visit the baths regularly. This is where you can feel the true atmosphere of Japanese relaxation: silence, nature, and a pleasant sense of coziness after immersing yourself in a hot pool.
Rotenburo (露天風呂) is an outdoor hot bath where you can enjoy nature and feel like a part of it. It's the exact place where hot water meets cold air. Where a cloud of steam is the only thing separating you from the starry sky or—if you're lucky—from the snow-capped peak of Fuji right in front of you.
There are several such places near Lake Kawaguchiko. But two hotels are truly special.
Base Hotel 1: Kozantei Ubuya (湖山亭うぶや) — the best onsen with a view of Fuji
Address: Kozantei Ubuya (湖山亭うぶや), Azagawa 10, Fujikawaguchiko-machi, Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi 401-0303 Transfer: free shuttle from Kawaguchiko Station upon request
We drove through the wooden gates at 3:00 PM. We were greeted with a bow. Handed a yukata—a light cotton kimono. Offered tea. All this without a single unnecessary word.
Kozantei Ubuya is located on the northern shore of Lake Kawaguchi—perfect for catching the mirror reflection of Fuji in the lake (Mirror Fuji) on a quiet morning. The hotel is exquisite and elegant, with refined decor and a cozy atmosphere. The service is efficient and courteous.
All rooms face Fuji and Lake Kawaguchiko. Several room types have a private rotenburo right on the balcony—a separate open-air bath with a direct view of the mountain.
One guest wrote a review that we reread several times: "We came here right after getting engaged. The staff threw us a celebration—unforgettable and touching. The suite with the private onsen was exactly how we dreamed it would be. The view of the lake and Fuji—from our room, from the balcony, from the onsen—was a waking dream."
The hotel has several public onsens—for men and women, indoor and outdoor rotenburo—with a stunning view of Fuji. There's a sauna. In the evenings, they serve a multi-course kaiseki dinner: sashimi, premium A-grade wagyu shabu-shabu, matcha dessert. Breakfast is traditional Japanese: miso soup, rice, pickles, omelet, grilled fish.
The rooms feature massage chairs, coffee and tea, and separate washing and relaxation areas. On-site, there's a library, a gift shop, and a tea lounge. Free parking.
Important note about tattoos: Kozantei Ubuya is among the onsen hotels that do not allow tattoos in public baths. If you have a small tattoo, you can cover it with a waterproof patch. Check at the entrance. But if you book a room with a private rotenburo, it's your personal space, and the issue is moot.
Price in April 2026: from $329 per night for a standard room. Room with a private rotenburo — from $519 per night. In Yuan: from ¥2,382 to ¥3,758 per night (dinner and breakfast included).
Base Hotel 2: Kaze no Terrace Kukuna (風のテラスKUKUNA) — when Fuji is visible from every spot
Address: Kaze no Terrace Kukuna (風のテラスKUKUNA), 70 Azagawa, Fujikawaguchiko-machi, Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi 401-0303 Transfer: free shuttle from Kawaguchiko Station from 3:00 PM to 7:00 PM
This hotel is designed so that Fuji is visible from everywhere. Literally.
Every room offers a direct panoramic view of Mount Fuji and Lake Kawaguchiko. Three separate relaxation zones—"Wind," "Light," and "Water"—each with a unique vibe and a view of the mountain. The hotel was created with the owner's experience at the Ritz-Carlton in mind—and you can feel it in the level of attention to detail.
The onsen on the 9th floor is an outdoor rotenburo with a view of Fuji and the lake. It's usually less crowded than public onsens in the area. Private baths by appointment (view depends on the type): 50 minutes for 3,300 yen (tax included). Available from 3:30 PM to 9:30 PM and from 6:00 AM to 9:00 AM. This is perfect for couples—especially if you have tattoos.
Kukuna is a resort ryokan with a commanding view of Fuji across the lake. During the sakura season, cherry trees in front of the hotel form a pink veil right in front of the mountain. Dinner choices: teppanyaki or Italian fusion with a buffet.
One guest shared an honest observation: "What you pay for at Kukuna is the view. It's truly worth the extra money. The rooms with a balcony are amazing. The best part—Fuji is visible right from the bed."
The staff is friendly and attentive. Multilingual support is available at the reception. The onsen closes for an hour for cleaning in the afternoon—plan your visit accordingly.
Price in April 2026: from $469 per night. In Yuan: from ¥3,396 per night (dinner and breakfast included).
Onsen culture: the full ritual from changing clothes to stepping out
The first time we went into an onsen, we did everything wrong. No one stopped us—the Japanese are too polite for that. But we felt the stares. Now we know it all. Let us break it down for you.
Step 1. Yukata — your uniform for the whole evening.
Before heading to the onsen, you change into a yukata robe. Stepping onto the tatami mats in the changing room, you leave your slippers outside the door. Clothes are neatly folded into a basket. The yukata is provided by the hotel. It's not just clothing—you wear it all over the ryokan: to the onsen, to dinner, to the library, to the garden.
Step 2. Shower first — water second.
The water in the pools is shared, so you must wash thoroughly with soap and shampoo before entering. Shower stalls with all necessary amenities are available in every onsen. Onsens aren't meant for washing off dirt—their direct purpose is relieving stress and relaxing the body and mind.
Step 3. Towel — strictly out of the water.
Small towels are used in hot springs. You use them to cover up when moving between baths, and sometimes place them on your head while bathing. You must not let the towel dip into the water—it's considered unhygienic.
Step 4. Swimsuit? No.
Swimsuits are forbidden. All visitors bathe naked. It might seem unusual at first, but most people quickly get used to it. Nudity here is viewed exclusively as part of the cultural purification ritual.
Step 5. Silence is the rule.
Loud conversations, making a fuss, and playing games are unacceptable in an onsen. It’s best to follow the gurus' example and meditate while contemplating the natural beauty. This isn't a poolside cafe. It's a completely different space.
Step 6. Check the temperature.
Rotenburo are ideal in freezing weather—the sharp contrast between hot water and cold air is incredible. The best times: autumn, winter, early spring. April is still cool enough for the perfect experience.
Step 7. After the onsen — tea and peace.
Returning to your room, you usually drink green tea with Japanese sweets and pass the time until dinner. And if you have a private rotenburo in your room, an ice-cold beer after all the soaking can be absolutely glorious.
What else to do in Kawaguchiko — beyond the onsen
The onsen is for the evening and morning. The daytime is a whole other world.
🌸 Fuji-Kawaguchiko Cherry Blossom Festival (富士河口湖さくら祭り)
Usually held from late March to mid-April (exact dates depend on the blooming) along the northern shore of the lake. Sakura + Fuji + evening illuminations until 9:00 PM. One of the most beautiful seasons in Japan.
🗻 Chureito Pagoda (Arakurayama Sengen Park / 新倉山浅間公園)
📍 3353 Arakura, Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi 403-0011
398 steps. A pagoda. Sakura. Fuji. That exact postcard shot—come to life. Best at 5:30 AM when you have the place to yourself.
🚠 Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (富士山パノラマロープウェイ)
📍 1163-1 Aokigahara, Fujikawaguchiko-machi, Yamanashi
A 3-minute ride up Mount Tenjo. Fuji is right opposite you, at eye level. Round-trip ticket — 1,000 yen.
🚴 Lake cycling tour
Bike rental — 500–1,000 yen per hour. The route around Kawaguchiko is about 20 km. You can ride it in 2–3 hours with stops at viewpoints.
🎵 Kawaguchiko Music Forest Museum (河口湖音楽と森の美術館)
📍 3077-20 Kawaguchi, Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi
Antique organs, mechanical music concerts every 30 minutes, a rose garden with a view of Fuji. Admission — 1,800–2,300 yen.
🍜 Hoto (ほうとう) — a dish you can't miss
A local specialty: flat udon noodles with pumpkin, vegetables, and miso paste in a thick, hot broth. It's the ultimate comfort food of the Yamanashi region. Price — 1,200–1,800 yen per portion. Expect lines at Houtou Fudou (ほうとう不動), but it’s totally worth the wait.
The perfect two days: an hour-by-hour itinerary
Day 1. 2:00 PM — check-in at Kozantei Ubuya or Kukuna. 3:00 PM — change into a yukata, take a first walk around the grounds. 4:00 PM — public onsen: warm up, get used to it, understand it. 6:30 PM — kaiseki or teppanyaki dinner at the hotel. 9:00 PM — rotenburo again. This time, at night. Fuji in the dark under the starlight.
Day 2. 5:30 AM — wake up. Head out to the lakeshore to catch the Mirror Fuji in the quiet morning. 7:00 AM — breakfast in your yukata with a view of the mountain. 9:00 AM — Chureito Pagoda: 398 steps, sakura, sunrise. 1:00 PM — Music Forest Museum. 3:30 PM — cycling tour or a stroll through the sakura festival. 7:00 PM — private onsen in your room. Hot water, crisp April air, Fuji right in front of you.
Cost of two nights for two — April 2026
Exchange rate: 1 JPY ≈ 0.0433 CNY. 10,000 yen ≈ ¥433 RMB.
Kozantei Ubuya — 2 nights (dinner and breakfast included):
Standard room with a view of Fuji — from $329 × 2 = $658 ≈ ¥4,764 RMB for two. Room with a private rotenburo — from $519 × 2 = $1,038 ≈ ¥7,515 RMB for two.
Kaze no Terrace Kukuna — 2 nights (dinner and breakfast included):
Room with a balcony and a view of Fuji — from $469 × 2 = $938 ≈ ¥6,791 RMB for two. Private onsen rental (extra) — 3,300 yen × 2 sessions = 6,600 yen ≈ ¥286 RMB.
Activities and dining for 2 days for two:
Chureito Pagoda — free. Ropeway — 2,000 yen ≈ ¥87. Music Forest Museum — 3,600 yen ≈ ¥156. Full-day bike rental — 2,000 yen ≈ ¥87. Tot