Epic Padova Stroll✨⛪️🇮🇹🍕🌺🪻❤️
One thing you quickly learn while travelling around Italy is that the country has an astonishing number of churches.
Tiny churches.
Huge churches.
Churches with famous artworks.
Churches older than some countries.
And churches that seem to appear the moment you've finally convinced yourself you've seen enough churches for one day.
Padova is certainly no exception.
During one of our post-pizza walks, my brother and I stumbled upon the Church of the Eremitani (Chiesa dei Santi Filippo e Giacomo agli Eremitani), a beautiful historic church located near both the ancient Roman amphitheatre and the famous Scrovegni Chapel, home to Giotto's celebrated frescoes.
The church is dedicated to Saint Philip and Saint James the Less, but it is better known simply as Gli Eremitani—"The Hermits"—because it was built and managed by the Augustinian Hermit Friars.
The origins of the complex date back to the 13th century, and it was far more than just a church. Attached to it was a friary that became an important intellectual center for Padova. The friars maintained a rich library, and many of them taught at the prestigious University of Padua, one of the oldest universities in Europe.
In other words, this was not merely a place of worship.
It was also a place where people could become considerably smarter than I ever managed after two espressos.
Architecturally, the church is impressive even from the outside. Above the wide nave, the walls are decorated with alternating bands of white, red, and yellow, creating the appearance of elaborate brickwork.
One particularly remarkable feature is the wooden roof.
The original keel-vault roof was designed by Fra Giovanni degli Eremitani, but sadly the church suffered severe damage during the devastating 1944 bombing raids of World War II. The roof was later painstakingly reconstructed to match the original design, preserving an important piece of Padovan history.
Unfortunately, admiring the interior would have to wait for another visit.
Now, Italy has taught me an important lesson about churches:
Never assume a church is closed simply because the doors look closed.
Many churches appear completely shut.
Then a local casually pushes the door open and walks inside.
Meanwhile, tourists stand outside wondering whether they've misunderstood the concept of doors.
As a result, my standard operating procedure became simple:
Observe whether locals enter.
Observe whether tour groups enter.
If curiosity reaches critical levels, gently test the door myself.
It's practically scientific research at this point.
Sadly, in the case of the Church of the Eremitani, the evidence was overwhelming.
No visitors.
No tour groups.
No activity.
No mysterious locals emerging from hidden entrances.
Just silence.
Perhaps it was the Sunday schedule.
Perhaps it was the heat.
Or perhaps the church simply decided it had earned a day off after surviving eight centuries of history.
Whatever the reason, it was definitely closed.
Fortunately, we had already enjoyed an excellent meal at my brother's beloved L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele Padova, located directly opposite the church.
So we simply treated the walk as a calorie-burning exercise.
A very necessary one.
Italian pizzas have a curious habit of making you forget all previous dietary commitments.
The church is also only a short stroll from the lovely Giardini dell'Arena, where visitors can admire beautiful sculptures, green spaces, and the surviving remains of Padova's ancient Roman amphitheatre.
Not a bad neighbourhood for a leisurely walk.
Even if your original plan was secretly to inspect another church.
And perhaps burn off a slice or two of pizza while pretending the stroll was entirely for cultural reasons. 😄⛪🍕🇮🇹
📍 Address
Chiesa degli Eremitani (Church of the Eremitani)
Piazza Eremitani 9, 35121 Padova (PD), Italy
📍 Nearby Highlights
Scrovegni Chapel (Cappella degli Scrovegni)
Piazza Eremitani 8, 35121 Padova, Italy
Giardini dell'Arena
Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, 35121 Padova, Italy
L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele Padova
Piazza Eremitani 18, 35121 Padova, Italy
A fascinating piece of Padova's history, surrounded by Roman ruins, world-famous art, beautiful gardens, and excellent pizza—proof that in Italy, culture and food are rarely far apart. 🍕🏛️⛪✨
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