Edinburgh: manor, palace, and wilderness
Choosing a clear, breezy day and coinciding with my daughter’s weekend off, I booked afternoon tea at The Witchery at the Princetonfield House hotel and tickets to Holyrood Palace online in advance. This set the stage for a gentle day trip through elegant manors, historic landmarks, and vast natural landscapes in Edinburgh.
At noon, we settled in at The Witchery at the Princetonfield House hotel to leisurely enjoy afternoon tea. This five-star luxury hotel was once the heart of Scotland’s political, social, commercial, and artistic life, holding a significant place locally. It was originally the historic Princeton Manor, built in 1687 under the direction of Sir William Bruce, the king’s architect. After completion, it served as the private residence of Sir James Dick, the mayor of Edinburgh, for many years. In 2003, the Bruce family entrusted this centuries-old manor to James Thomson, a well-known independent restaurateur and hotelier in Scotland, making him the third owner in 337 years.
James invested millions of pounds restoring the building’s structure and original interiors, preserving its authentic character while avoiding generic commercial renovations. He crafted The Witchery’s unique vintage luxury style. The hotel’s collection of paintings and antique artworks has been rooted here for over three centuries, quietly witnessing the manor’s passage of time.
The tranquil and refined atmosphere, exquisite antique furnishings, and distinctive architectural aesthetics have captivated countless notable figures. Winston Churchill and Margaret Thatcher once dined and rested here, while celebrities like Sean Connery, Elton John, and Catherine Zeta-Jones have enjoyed lively gatherings. Our visit was not just for afternoon tea but to immerse ourselves in the manor and its pervasive art collection, experiencing the captivating stories intertwined with Scotland’s history🏴.
The Princetonfield House hotel covers 20 acres, surrounded by native parkland and private gardens, tucked away in the green outskirts, far from city noise. The grounds maintain traditional Scottish rural ecology, with three gentle Highland cattle in enclosures, free-roaming peacocks, and traditional beehives, fully recreating the leisurely lifestyle of an old manor.
The manor’s afternoon tea features locally sourced dairy, grains, and seasonal fresh fruit, offering a fresh and authentic taste. The salmon sandwiches stand out, and the scones—plain and raisin—are soft and fragrant, paired with rich clotted cream and handmade jam for a layered flavor. The desserts are light and not overly sweet, reflecting the manor’s elegant Scottish charm.
After tea, we strolled to the western meadow to visit the Highland cattle. In the warm sunshine, the three cattle rested in the shade, showing only their fluffy backs and curved horns, unfortunately hiding their gentle faces—a slight disappointment. In the back garden, peacocks lounged on the grass basking in the sun. The entire manor felt peaceful and secluded, like a hidden paradise.
At 3 PM, we followed the itinerary to the eastern end of the Royal Mile to visit Holyrood Palace, entering in an orderly manner with pre-booked tickets. Photography is prohibited throughout the palace. Also known as the Palace of Holyroodhouse, it is the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland, steeped in a millennium of religious change and royal history. The palace was founded in 1128 by order of King David I of Scotland, originally an Augustinian abbey and a key medieval religious site and royal residence.
As Edinburgh’s political status rose, in the late 15th century, James IV and James V expanded and transformed the original buildings, reshaping the austere religious complex into a Renaissance-style royal palace. In the 16th century, it became the center of Queen Mary’s reign, where she governed, endured marital strife, and political turmoil. Her secretary David Rizzio was assassinated here, profoundly altering Scotland’s history. Today, it remains the core venue for British royal state ceremonies and official banquets in Scotland.
The palace is open to the public in five main tour areas, each with its own charm and layers of history. The 14 royal state apartments are grand and imposing, with the throne room and royal reception rooms elegantly furnished, showcasing exquisite French and Flemish tapestries, vintage royal furniture, and precious art collections that vividly reflect centuries of royal taste and lifestyle evolution.
The largest exhibition space is the Great Gallery, where 96 royal portraits by Dutch painter Jacob de Wet II line the walls, tracing the lineage of the Scottish royal family. Queen Mary’s private chambers in the northwest tower, accessible via a vintage spiral staircase, are the oldest and most historically rich part of the palace. The rooms are fully restored to recreate her bedroom and reception scenes, vividly portraying her turbulent royal life. Seeing Queen Mary’s portrait and recalling her 19 years of imprisonment and tragic execution evokes deep sympathy.
Next to the main hall are the ruins of Holyrood Abbey, precious remains from the original 1128 construction. Weathered by a thousand years, the majestic ruins and delicate stone carvings still stand, a site that hosted countless royal weddings and coronations, rich with ancient charm. Behind the palace lies the 4-hectare royal garden, adjacent to Arthur’s Seat and Holyrood Park. Lush and serene, it is an ideal place to relax and reflect after exploring the heavy history.
Leaving the historic sites behind, the journey turned to nature as we climbed Arthur’s Seat, the highest point in Edinburgh within Holyrood Park. This ancient extinct volcano, 186 meters tall and 350 million years old, has been Scotland’s exclusive royal hunting ground since the 12th century. The entire area preserves the raw Scottish wilderness, with no cable cars or commercial facilities. Hiking the usual round trip takes about 1.5 to 3 hours.
We followed the classic Queen’s Drive loop trail, pausing at St. Margaret’s Loch, often home to swans, for a rest and photos. If energy allows, you can also visit the 15th-century ruins of St. Anthony’s Chapel to the north, where the desolate ruins carry a haunting ancient atmosphere.
From the summit, the 360-degree panoramic view is spectacular, encompassing Edinburgh’s Old Town streets, New Town’s modern buildings, the grand castle silhouette, and the expansive Firth of Forth sea view. The stone cairn at the top features a clear orientation plaque, marking the straight-line distance to Stirling Castle as 51.5 km, offering a compact view of Britain’s hills, seas, and cities.
As dusk fell, the day’s mountain trek came to a satisfying close. We headed to Carbon Bar in Edinburgh’s Old Town for dinner. The signature grilled fish set was authentic, priced at £32.8, served with white rice and sugar-free cola. The total for two was £42, offering good value. This hearty meal satisfied our Chinese palates and wiped away the fatigue from the climb.
Today’s itinerary balanced cultural exploration, outdoor hiking, and flavor tasting, blending British style with Chinese warmth to create a rich and meaningful sunny day in Edinburgh.