Back from my "suffering" trip to Xuancheng. After a four-day stay, my perception of travel costs has been completely overturned
Before I left, I scrolled through so many posts, and so many people were advising: Don't go to Xuancheng!
They said the attractions are ridiculously spread out, and if you visit one place a day, you spend most of your time on the road.
They said many ancient towns look the same, and you'll get tired of them after a while.
They also said everything in the mountains is expensive, and going there is just paying to suffer.
Honestly, I was ready to cancel my hotel booking.
After debating for two or three days, I figured the high-speed train ride wasn't that long, so I decided to just give myself a four-day break and go see for myself.
As it turns out, this trip completely proved me wrong 🙈.
Xuancheng in September and October is truly comfortable.
There's no stifling summer heat, and the breeze from the mountains is cool. The rice paddies are slowly turning golden, and the leaves are starting to show warm hues. There are no massive tour groups, no need to queue for photos, food is cheap, and guesthouse prices are heartwarming.
Spending very little money to wander among green mountains, flowing water, and ancient villages—this isn't "suffering," it's a relaxing vacation I gave myself 🍂.
✨ Attractions | Surprises hidden everywhere
Chaji Ancient Village 🏡
This was my favorite part of the trip.
Many people say, "Isn't it just an old village?"
But Chaji is truly different from other ancient towns. It's huge; you can't just walk through it in one or two commercial streets. Hundreds of old houses are scattered throughout the valley, with a small stream running through the village and stone bridges spanning the water.
Many locals still live in the village. You'll see dried pumpkin and beans drying at their doorsteps, grandmothers sitting outside picking vegetables, and dogs leisurely wandering through the alleys. There are no crowded influencer milk tea shops or cookie-cutter souvenir stores.
Don't obsess over the marked tourist spots. Just turn into any empty alley—white walls, black tiles, murmuring water, and bamboo trays of autumn harvest drying in front of doors. Every photo you take will have character. In the evening, as the sunset slants across, the whole village is quiet. Sitting on a rock by the stream and zoning out for a while, all your worries just drift away.
Jingxian · Taohuatan 🌊
"The water of Taohuatan is a thousand feet deep"—the poem I memorized as a child has finally come to life before my eyes.
Don't just take photos at the crowded pier. Walk slowly along the shore; the old pier, the Takege Ancient Bank, and ancient residences are all hidden here. The water of the Qingyi River is crystal clear, and the village on the opposite bank is nestled among green trees.
Many people leave after an hour, which is a pity.
It's best to stay until dusk. The sunset hits the water, making it shimmer, and the distant mountains look hazy. When the breeze blows from the water, you'll finally understand why Li Bai lingered here and couldn't bear to leave.
Longchuan Scenic Area 🏯
Longchuan feels both exquisite and grand to me.
A water street runs through the village, with crystal-clear stream water. The most famous features are the two stone archways, with carvings so detailed they are breathtaking. The patterns of flowers, birds, and figures are still clearly visible after hundreds of years.
The village is well-maintained. The ancestral hall has tall beams and pillars, with intricate and beautiful wood carvings. Many people rush to take a photo of the archway and leave, but you must go inside to look slowly and read the stories on the walls. Outside the village are flat rice paddies, golden in autumn, with distant mountains as a backdrop—the pastoral atmosphere is perfect.
Yueliangwan 🏞️
Don't think Yueliangwan is only for playing in the water in summer!
In autumn, Yueliangwan is less noisy from water activities and more peaceful. The stream is shallow, with rocks of all sizes poking out of the water, and the viral fish-scale dam is quiet. Driving slowly along the riverside road, with green mountains on one side and the stream on the other, you can stop anytime, find a rock to sit on, and step into the cool stream water.
You don't have to visit the viral spots. Just walk along the river, listen to the sound of the flowing water, and look at the bamboo forest on the bank—that's the simplest joy.
🗺️ Classic itinerary (4 days, 3 nights, relaxed version)
Day 1: Arrive in Xuancheng and head straight to Jingxian. Check into a guesthouse in Jingxian county or near Chaji. Spend the afternoon leisurely exploring Chaji Ancient Village and waiting for the sunset. Have some farmhouse dishes near your guesthouse in the evening.
Day 2: Don't rush in the morning; sleep in. Head to Taohuatan and explore for two or three hours. Have local dishes in Taohuatan town for lunch. In the afternoon, go to Yueliangwan and take a walk along the river valley. You can stay in Jixi or return to Jingxian for the night.
Day 3: Head to Longchuan Scenic Area and take your time admiring the archways and ancestral hall. If you have extra time, you can visit Renli Ancient Village on the way; it's very quiet with few people. Stay in Jixi for the night.
Day 4: If you still have energy, you can go to Jingting Mountain. "Looking at each other without getting tired, only Jingting Mountain." The mountain isn't high, and it's not tiring to climb, making it suitable for a slow walk. Afterward, pack up and get ready for your return trip.
👉 Two-day condensed version: Chaji + Taohuatan + Yueliangwan. Skip Longchuan and Jingting Mountain to avoid traveling between counties, perfect for a short weekend trip.
⚠️ Tips to avoid pitfalls
1. The attractions are very far apart! 🚗
This is the biggest pitfall! Chaji, Taohuatan, Yueliangwan, Longchuan, and Jingting Mountain are scattered across different counties. Public transport is infrequent, and you'll have to wait a long time for buses.
If possible, definitely drive yourself! Hiring a car is also an option. Don't even think about taking the bus to visit two ancient villages in one day; most of your time will be wasted on the road, and you'll be exhausted.
2. Don't expect bustling commercial streets everywhere 🛍️
The beauty of Xuancheng lies in its pristine villages. Many villages don't have many shops. Don't come here expecting to visit Wuzhen or Xitang. Its charm lies in the alleys, streams, fields, and the local atmosphere.
3. Large temperature difference in the mountains 🍃
It might be warm in the city, but it's very cool in the valleys in the morning and evening. Even on a sunny day, bring a light jacket. It's windy by the stream, especially in the evening.
4. Don't just rush through the entrance of the scenic area 📸
In almost all ancient villages, the most beautiful scenery isn't near the main gate. Walk another 300–500 meters inside, avoid the main street, and duck into the side alleys to see the true local life.
💡 Travel tips
✅ Accommodation: If you want peace and quiet, stay in a guesthouse inside Chaji or Longchuan, where you can see old houses and streams right outside your window. If you're worried about humidity or bugs, stay in Jingxian or Jixi county, where there are more choices, dining is more convenient, and prices are cheaper.
✅ Food 🤤: You must try Jixi stir-fried vermicelli, stinky mandarin fish, hairy tofu, small river fish, braised pork with dried bamboo shoots, and mugwort cakes.
Don't sit down at the first restaurant you see at the entrance of a scenic area. Walk further into the town or residential areas. Many unassuming little shops have authentic flavors, large portions, and reasonable prices. A local dish costs only 20 or 30 yuan and will leave you very satisfied. This is also where my perception of costs was overturned!
✅ Photography 📷: The alleys and bamboo trays of autumn harvest in Chaji, the riverside dusk at Taohuatan, the archways and water street in Longchuan, and the streams and bamboo forests in Yueliangwan. Wearing plain-colored or New Chinese-style clothing goes perfectly with the white walls and black tiles.
✅ Saving money ✨: Many fields and trails at the village entrances are free. You can buy scenic area tickets in advance on the official mini-program, which sometimes offers small discounts. Don't buy too many "local specialties" promoted at the entrance; supermarkets in the county have more variety and lower prices.
✅ Avoiding pitfalls ⚠️: Don't easily trust scalpers on the side of the road who say "you can enter the village for free via a small path." Those paths are either unsafe or you'll end up being stopped anyway. Just use the official entrance for peace of mind. When buying dried bamboo shoots or tea, ask a few shops for prices.
💭 Final summary
Many people discourage others from visiting Xuancheng, but it's not that Xuancheng is bad; it's that the itinerary was planned incorrectly.
If you insist on high-intensity travel, rushing to two or three villages a day, driving constantly, and always on the move, of course you'll be tired and feel like you're "suffering."
Xuancheng is meant for slowing down.
Its beauty isn't on a checklist or on viral signs.
It's the dried vegetables drying at the entrance of the alleys in Chaji;
the slowly flowing Qingyi River water at Taohuatan;
the stone archways in Longchuan that have weathered the storms;
the murmuring stream by your ears in Yueliangwan;
and the steaming local dishes in a small farmhouse restaurant.
The prices are gentle, the landscape is gentle, and time moves slowly.
Don't be scared off by the discouraging comments online ✨.
You don't have to try to visit all the attractions at once. Pick two or three places you like, stay for a few nights, travel less, and zone out more.
Xuancheng in autumn, with golden rice paddies and peaceful ancient villages. It's truly worth a visit.