The Notre-Dame Basilica in Montreal was bathed in a deep blue light, with chandeliers hanging down like stars. Stained glass windows lined the basilica, sunlight streaming in and dappling the chairs. The organ behind the altar was enormous, reportedly containing thousands of pipes. Tourists sat in a daze, some with their eyes closed, others taking photos with their phones. Prayer slips hung on the backs of the chairs, written in French, crooked and illegible. As I left, a street performer was playing the violin in the square, the melody floating in the air. The steps were filled with people sunbathing, pigeons pacing at their feet. The church steeple stood quietly against the blue sky.