Baoguo Temple - where it all begins and endsYou know, there's a special magic to traveling returning to where you started and realizing you're a completely different person. That Mount Emei, which seemed like a pretty picture on the first day, has now become a part of you. That your knees remember every stone, and your lungs remember every breath of air at an altitude of three thousand meters. Baoguo Temple awaited us below. And it was the perfect end point.Baoguo, also known as the "Temple of Gratitude to the Motherland," stands at the very beginning of the trail, at the foot of the mountain. On the first day, we were in such a hurry to get going that we left it for last, like a delicious dessert saved for last. And we did the right thing. The temple is about 450 years old. It was founded during the Ming Dynasty, in the 16th century, and since then it has faithfully fulfilled its purpose: meeting pilgrims, seeing them off to the top, and welcoming them back when they descend, tired and happy. Can you imagine how many stories it has witnessed? How many knees, like mine, have trembled before its gates?In the Hall of the Seven Buddhas, I encountered the purple bronze Huayan Pagoda. The same one, with 14 stories and 4,700 small Buddhas on its body. But the temple's crowning glory is, without a doubt, the bell. A huge bronze bell, weighing over 10 tons. Locals call it the "Bashu Bell King" (named after the ancient kingdom of Sichuan). Transportation: Take bus #5 in Emeishan; it goes directly to the temple. The price is only 1.5 yuan. It's almost ridiculous: 1.5 yuan for a ticket to a place that will nourish your memories for years. Buses run every 10 minutes, so you won't have to wait even during rush hour.You can, of course, take Didi—it's about 20 yuan and takes 25 minutes. But if you're not as exhausted as we were from descending the mountain, the bus is a more authentic option. You'll get locals to join you, you'll enjoy the scenery outside the window.