The wind in Ili intoxicates the lavender and awakens the wildness deep within
June in Ili: Lavender dyes the summer purple, and the 25℃ breeze is filled with the scent of flowers
“Slow down! Don’t step on the seedlings!” The flower farmer uncle in Huocheng waved his straw hat and shouted. The purple lavender fields looked like spilled paint buckets, spreading along the gentle slope to the horizon. My cousin spun around in a white dress among the flowers, the hem brushing the flower spikes, soaking her in fragrance. June in Ili is like a sapphire kissed by sunlight. The water of Sayram Lake is so blue it feels crisp, the grass in Nalati is so green it seems to drip oil, and the Duku Highway has just torn open winter’s quilt—25℃ during the day, perfect for a light jacket, and at night, wrapped in a quilt listening to the wind, even dreams smell sweet.
Following the herders, we entered the grasslands three times, counted bee swarms in the lavender sea, spotted light spots in the ripples of Sayram Lake, and counted clouds while bouncing on horseback. Only then did I understand why people say, “Xinjiang’s summer is half in Flaming Mountains and half in Ili’s gentleness.” The lakes here are “frozen” — Sayram Lake’s water carries the chill of snow mountains; dipping your hand in, you have to pull it out after a few seconds, yet it’s so clear you can see stones ten meters deep. The grass here “moves” — the “Human Grassland” of Kalajun undulates in the wind like someone’s back draped in green silk. The flowers here “form seas” — Huocheng’s lavender fields stretch in patches, walking into them feels like falling into a purple whirlpool, even your breath tastes sweet. If you don’t come now, after July’s bloom ends, you’ll have to wait until next year to take a photo turning around in the purple sea of flowers.
🌊 Sayram Lake: Snow mountains beneath the lake
“Drive slower! You can see the entire Guozigou Bridge reflected here!” Old Chen gripped the steering wheel tightly. Our self-driving car stopped on the gravel beach of Xihai Grassland, and suddenly Sayram Lake’s water hit our eyes—so intensely blue, like the sky crushed and scattered into the lake. The distant snow mountains stood upside down in the water, and when clouds floated by, the shadows on the lakebed moved with them. My cousin took off her shoes and rushed into the shallow water, but as soon as she stepped in, she jumped up with a “hiss,” “The water’s as cold as if it had ice chips!”
3 tips to “capture the lake on your phone”
· Take the “East Gate counterclockwise route”: Don’t enter from the South Gate! The first stop after entering the East Gate is “Dianjiangtai.” From the high ground, you can see the lake like a blue ribbon winding around the grassland. A couple who entered from the South Gate got stuck in the tourist bus, and by the time they reached the lake, the sun was almost setting, making their photos dull and gray.
· Bring a “white scarf + sunglasses”: Spread the scarf by the lake, sit on it, and when the wind blows, the scarf blends with the lake’s blue, like stepping out of a fairy tale. Sunglasses not only block the sun but also reflect the lake in the lenses when taking side-profile photos, so everyone knows “you’re at Sayram Lake.” An aunt wore red-framed sunglasses, and the lake reflected in the lenses made people ask on social media, “Are those glasses made from the lake?”
· Wait for “herders’ horses to pass by the lake”: Don’t just shoot the lake! When a brown horse lowers its head to drink, the lake’s reflection shatters into stars. When the horse flicks its tail, water droplets splash like silver dust sprinkled on the lake. We waited half an hour until a Kazakh young man came to herd the horses. He laughed, “You city folks are funny, watching horses drink water for so long.”
🌾 Huocheng Lavender: Free flower fields more photogenic than scenic spots
“Head to Huanghuang Village! The private flower fields there are unmanaged!” The driver was right. The Princess Jieyou Lavender Garden was full of aunties waving scarves, but two kilometers away in Huanghuang Village, a few families’ flower fields were open, with purple flower spikes nearly knee-high. Bees perched on the flowers, their wings dusted with pollen. An elderly flower farmer sat on the field ridge picking lavender, saying, “Dried, it can be made into pillows.” My cousin tried to help but jumped up scared after picking two flowers because of the bees. The grandma laughed, showing her false teeth.
2 secrets to “fall into the purple sea”
· Wear “light-colored old clothes”: Don’t wear new dresses! Lavender pollen sticks to clothes and is hard to wash off. Old white T-shirts and jeans are the most comfortable. Sitting in the flower field, the flower spikes brush your pants, tickling you into laughter. A girl wore beige wide-leg pants, and when she stood up, the pant legs were stained purple. She said, “This is Ili’s stamp on me.”
· Borrow “herders’ straw hats” at dusk: When the sunset dyes the flower fields deep purple, borrow a Kazakh felt hat, tilt the brim low, and face the light for photos that look like “in the French countryside.” We borrowed a blue cloth hat from a grandma, who insisted on giving us a bunch of freshly picked lavender, saying, “It’ll smell for three days in the car.”
🐎 Kalajun Grassland: The wind on horseback is stronger than wine
“Hold the reins tight! Don’t let go like in TV dramas!” Horse keeper Ali pressed my cousin’s hand on the horse’s mane. The black horse neighed, digging small holes in the grass with its hooves. After just a few steps, my cousin shouted, “Too fast!” Ali laughed and pulled the horse back, “This is walking; running is really fast!” The grassland looked like green velvet. The “Human Grassland” curves in the distance like a green quilt. Sheep slowly moved far away, like a sprinkle of white salt.
1 tip to “enjoy without falling off”
· Choose a “four-year-old mare”: Don’t pick a hot-tempered stallion! Mares are gentle and steady. Even if you nervously pull the reins, they just sway slowly. A young man insisted on riding a stallion, but when it ran, he shouted “Stop!” Ali had to chase and catch the horse. His legs were shaking when he got off but said, “It was thrilling.”
🚗 6 days 5 nights self-driving itinerary (about 1500 RMB per person)
· Day 1: Arrive in Yining → Rent SUV (about 300 RMB/day) → Head straight to Sayram Lake (East Gate self-driving ticket 140 RMB/car) → Stay at lakeside RV camp (about 200 RMB/night, sleep listening to waves) → Eat cold-water fish hotpot (60 RMB per person, fish freshly caught from the lake).
· Day 2: Circle Sayram Lake → Photo at Guozigou Bridge → Afternoon to Huocheng (stay at Huanghuang Village homestay, about 150 RMB/night, flower fields at the doorstep) → Eat lavender honey naan (5 RMB each, sweet to the point of cloying).
· Day 3: Shoot lavender in Huanghuang Village → Afternoon to Nalati (ticket + shuttle 155 RMB/person) → Stay in grassland yurt (about 180 RMB/night, bonfire at night) → Eat grilled lamb skewers (3 RMB each, mix of fat and lean).
· Day 4: Nalati aerial grassland → Afternoon rush to Kalajun (horse riding 200 RMB/hour) → Stay in Kazakh yurt (including breakfast and dinner about 120 RMB/person).
· Day 5: Northern section of Duku Highway (opens mid-late June) → Experience four seasons in one day (bring down jacket! It might snow on the mountain top) → Stay in Qiaorma.
· Day 6: Return to Yining → Buy lavender essential oil (50 RMB/bottle, same model sold for 150 RMB in scenic spots) → Return trip.
June tips to avoid pitfalls
· Don’t “feed seagulls at Sayram Lake”: It’s prohibited! An uncle secretly threw bread and was fined 200 RMB by security and scolded by other tourists for “lack of manners.”
· Don’t “ride horses beyond designated routes”: Deep inside Kalajun are swamps. The horse keeper said, “Last year a horse got stuck, and the person almost didn’t get out.” Don’t listen to offers to “pay extra to go further.”
When leaving, the car trunk was stuffed with dried lavender and honey naan, and my cousin’s straw hat was still dusted with purple pollen. Crossing Guozigou Bridge, she suddenly said, “Next year I want to see the lavender after it’s done blooming; it must be beautiful too.” I smiled and said, “You’re enchanted by Ili,” but I was thinking the same—25℃ summer, purple wind, and the bumps on horseback, who could forget?
Open Trip.com now to book an RV; Sayram Lake’s campgrounds still have “lake view spots,” and opening the curtains in the morning reveals the blue. The lavender is still waiting for the wind, the grassland still waiting for horses to tread. If you don’t come soon, when Duku Highway is clogged with traffic, wanting to smell flowers in the 25℃ breeze won’t be so carefree anymore.