Stay at a Chinese-style inn in Bozhou filled with the scent of herbs, and wake up to a courtyard full of botanical aromas.
Have you ever experienced the feeling of waking up to a room filled with the scent of traditional Chinese medicine?
In Bozhou, this is nothing out of the ordinary. Known as the "Capital of Chinese Medicine," this city is the world's largest trading hub for traditional Chinese medicinal herbs. Walking down the street, you can smell the faint, lingering scent of herbs in the air.
I spent three days in Bozhou, waking up to the scent of herbs every morning, exploring the medicine markets and historical sites during the day, and strolling through the old streets at night. I felt completely immersed in the city's cultural heritage. This post won't talk about Cao Cao; instead, I'll focus on Bozhou's medicinal culture and its exquisite ancient architecture.
🌿 Traditional Chinese Medicine Trading Center: An eye-opening market experience
How can you visit Bozhou without checking out the medicine market? This trading center is the largest of its kind in the world. Every morning, it's packed with people as herb merchants from all over the country gather here to trade—it's a truly spectacular sight.
I went at 7:00 AM and was immediately blown away. Inside the massive trading hall, rows of stalls were filled with all kinds of medicinal herbs: ginseng, deer antler, goji berries, astragalus, angelica... if you can think of it, they have it. The air was filled with a mixed aroma of various herbs, which was surprisingly pleasant.
Many vendors were skillfully sorting herbs, some slicing them, others packing them, all busy at work. I spent over two hours wandering around, learning about many herbs I had only ever seen on TV. I even bought some goji berries and chrysanthemum to take home for tea, and the prices were much cheaper than elsewhere.
A quick tip: The market is busiest in the morning, and many stalls close in the afternoon, so I recommend going early. You can bargain, but don't go overboard. When buying herbs, pay attention to the quality, and if you're unsure, ask around at a few different stalls.
🎭 Huaxilou (Flower Theater): The premier stage of the Central Plains, breathtakingly beautiful
I have to rave about this place—Huaxilou was the biggest surprise of my trip to Bozhou. Originally the Shan-Shaan Guild Hall from the Qing Dynasty, it's known as "Huaxilou" (Flower Theater) because of the incredibly intricate carvings on the stage.
Huaxilou is famous for its "three wonders": brick carvings, wood carvings, and iron flagpoles.
The brick carvings on the gate are truly amazing. On a thin layer of brick, hundreds of figures are carved, each with a different expression, even down to the individual strands of hair. I leaned in close to look for a long time, and the more I looked, the more I admired the craftsmanship of the ancient artisans.
The wood carvings on the stage are even more exquisite, depicting stories from the Three Kingdoms, such as "Changban Slope," "Three Visits to the Thatched Cottage," and "The Empty Fort Strategy." Each scene is incredibly lifelike, with the characters' movements, expressions, and clothing depicted in such detail that it feels like they might step right off the wood at any moment.
Then there are the two iron flagpoles, weighing over 15,000 jin. They are cast with dragon and phoenix patterns and bells; when the wind blows, the bells chime, which sounds lovely.
I spent over two hours at Huaxilou and felt like I couldn't take it all in. Every corner features exquisite carvings, and every detail is worth savoring. I recommend hiring a guide; many of the carvings have stories behind them, and listening to a guide is much more interesting than just looking on your own.
🏦 Nanjing Lane Money Shop: What did ancient banks look like?
After leaving Huaxilou, it's a ten-minute walk to the Nanjing Lane Money Shop. This was a piaohao (draft bank) from the Qing Dynasty, equivalent to an ancient bank. It preserves the original teller rooms, accounting offices, and vaults, allowing you to understand how ancient financial operations worked.
The architecture of the money shop is also very distinctive, featuring typical Hui-style design with courtyards, corridors, and carved doors and windows, all exuding refinement. The most interesting part is the vault, located in a hidden underground chamber with heavy security mechanisms at the entrance. Just imagining all that silver hidden away there is quite evocative.
After visiting these sites, you can take a walk through the Bozhou Old Street in the evening. This street is right next to Huaxilou, and it has a special charm when the lights come on at night. Red lanterns hang on the old houses with blue bricks and gray tiles, creating a play of light and shadow—every photo you take looks like a masterpiece. The street is lined with small shops selling medicinal herbs and handicrafts, as well as stalls featuring traditional crafts. You can browse as you walk and soak in the nightlife of this thousand-year-old city.
🎨 Cultural craft experiences
· Next to Huaxilou, there is a rubbing experience shop where you can try making rubbings of the brick carvings from Huaxilou. You can frame your work and take it home as a meaningful souvenir.
· Bozhou has many shops where you can make your own traditional Chinese medicine sachets. You can choose the herbs, grind them into powder, and sew the sachets yourself. The finished sachets can be hung on your bag or placed by your pillow—they smell great and are good for your health.
· If you're interested in calligraphy, you can visit the brush and ink shops on the old street, where you can watch old artisans making calligraphy brushes on the spot and even try it yourself.
The place I stayed this time was a Chinese-style inn with a courtyard planted with many medicinal herbs. Every morning, when I opened the window, I could smell the faint scent of herbs, which was incredibly therapeutic. The inn's decor was tasteful, with Chinese-style furniture, rustic decorations, and calligraphy and traditional Chinese paintings on the walls, all exuding a cultural atmosphere. The room had a large bathtub, and after walking all day, taking a hot bath was so relaxing. The bed was very comfortable, and the pillow was filled with buckwheat hulls, which was great for my neck. I slept soundly every night and felt completely rejuvenated.