Hidden in a 4A-rated ancient village is a group of "traditionalists" who live in a 600-year-old house with a lively and down-to-earth atmosphere.
Shangfeng Village: There is a 4A ancient village hidden in Hubei, 600 years old nine ancient piles are still free
Driving from Yellowstone to Tai Yee, when the asphalt road drilled into the hillside, the sign on the roadside was suddenly changed to "Shang Fung Jiu Gu Chi Village". Turning a bend, a blue-gray horse-head wall suddenly emerged from the green trees - not one or two, but a whole patch of ancient houses spread along the hillside, with flying roofs hooked with cloud shadows, the old camphor tree at the entrance of the village took three people to hold, and a sign hung on the trunk: "800 years old." Grandpa Fong, who was guarding the ancestral hall, sat on the threshold and smiled when he saw us stop the car. "Come in and walk around. It's free. The old objects of this village are more expensive than tickets."
Sure enough, stepping on the bluestone slab and walking inside, the stones beneath her feet were polished, and the moss drilled out of the seams was soft. The four characters "Farming and Studying Heirloom" are engraved on the lintel of an ancient house. Most of the patent leather has fallen off, but it still has a hard air. “This is a Ming Dynasty house,” Grandpa Feng pointed to the words with a cigarette stick, “my ancestors lived there when they were examined as scholars, and people still live there now.” The door opened with a creak, and the old lady in a blue cloth shirt came out to dry her grain with a dustpan, the grains falling on the bluestone, and the “click” sound seemed to be counting the days.
🏡 Nine ancient bundles: Every brick hides a story
The "mortise and tenon code" of the ancient house. The hundreds of ancient houses in the village contain the ingenuity of the southern style of Anhui, Guangdong and Hubei architecture: the horse head wall in Jiangxi to keep out the rain, the patio in Anhui for lighting, and the local wooden lattice windows for ventilation. Walking into the Feng family's ancestral hall, the carvings on the beams are not painted, the fragrance of camphor wood is mixed with incense, and on a certain beam, you can see the inscription "Kangxi period". “Last year, a builder came and looked at the mortise and tenon joints all afternoon,” said Grandpa Fong. “He said that this kind of craft, not many people know it anymore.”
The "Round of Years Love Words" of ancient trees. Under the old camphor tree at the entrance of the village, there are always old people sitting in Naliang. There is a hole in the trunk of the tree, which is stuffed with pebbles by children. "This tree is older than the village," Grandpa Feng touched the tree pattern, "my grandfather's grandfather said that when they were in trouble, they relied on this tree to identify the direction. "The magnolia tree in the spring, the ginkgo tree in the autumn, the ancient trees in the village each have their own tempers. There is a 300-year-old soap pod tree.
🚶 Ancient Village Slow Walk: Cycling through six hundred years of time
The "Memory of Bluestone Slabs" of the ancient road. On the ancient road that runs through the village, the bluestone slabs were stepped on and sunk down in the middle. On rainy days, some water would accumulate, reflecting the shadow of the horse's head wall. There are a few small round holes in the stone slabs of a certain section of the road, “It used to be for wheelbarrows,” said Grandpa Feng. “Back then, this was the way to transport food and marry. A girl in Hanfu walked slowly with her skirt in hand, saying she wanted to "listen to the footsteps of six hundred years ago."
The “sweet water secret” of the ancient well. The old well in the village, the mouth of which was ground into a deep pit by ropes, and the water was so clear that one could see the pebbles below. The grandmothers brought wooden barrels to fetch water, the barrel ropes drooped down with a "huh-huh" sound, the water brought up was cool, and the tea they brewed was sweeter than the mineral water in the city. “This well flows through mountain spring water,” Grandpa Feng scooped up a ladle of water to drink, “it hasn’t dried out in the years of great drought, people in the village say, it’s the ancestors who are blessing.” The stone mill by the well is still turning, and some children put the corn kernels in it, and the milled corn flour carries the aroma of stone mills.
🍚 Ancient house smoke: hiding the old taste of the stove
The "hot pot sauce" of wood-fired rice. When eating in a villager's house, one must eat rice stewed on a wood-fired stove ($15/person). The crispy rice dumplings on the edge of the iron pot, mixed with home-pickled dried carrots, are so fragrant that you can eat more than a bowl. "Rice is grown in the back hill, firewood is the dead branches under the ancient trees," Grandma added firewood to the stove, "This meal must be eaten with water from the ancient well." The eight immortal table in the hall was filled with fried pumpkin vines and steamed earth eggs, all grown in the courtyard.
The "sticky sweetness" of rice candy. Aunt Fong at the entrance of the village has been making rice candy for 30 years. She uses ancestral wooden molds with the word "福" and patterns printed on them. The rice candy is very sticky, one bite can pull out the threads, the fragrance of sesame mixed with the fragrance of rice, sweet and not greasy. “It used to be only done during the Chinese New Year,” Aunt Fong said as she cut the sugar, “Now tourists come, they can try it anytime.” A child ate too quickly, the sugar stuck to his teeth, grinning, Aunt Fong scratched him some powder with her fingers, and said, “It will melt in your mouth.”
📍Rules of walking in the ancient village: be gentle and do not scare the time
Don't be loud! The walls of the ancient house are thin, and talking too loudly will scare the elderly living inside. Last year, a group of young people were laughing in the ancestral hall, and the dust on the beams was shaken off. Grandpa Fong did not scold them, but handed them a broom and said, "The ancestors are watching." You can take pictures, but don't touch the carvings or engravings. "These old objects are gone if they are broken."
Bring some “empty”. Don't bring too much with you when you come. The road in the ancient village is narrow, so it's inconvenient to carry a big basket. Don't buy too much when you leave. The rice candy and tea leaves in the village are enough to try the freshness. “It’s better to bring a notebook,” said Grandpa Fong, “to take note of the old stories you read than to buy souvenirs.” One girl wrote a poem under an ancient tree and read it to the elderly, making the grandmothers wipe their tears.
As he left, Grandpa Feng stood under the old camphor tree and waved, his shadow overlapping with the tree shadow. Outside the car window, the blue-gray horse-head wall gradually faded away, the smoke still floated on the roof of the ancient house, suddenly understood the "reverse development" of this village - he did not surround the old things to make money, but let the villagers continue to live, use, let the ancient trees continue to grow, the ancient wells continue to sweet, like the pot of wood-fired rice, slow fire stewed out of the most memorable incense.
Practical information
· Tickets: National 4A-level scenic spot, but permanently free! There is no charge for visiting ancestral halls and ancient houses.
· Best time: March-April magnolia blooms, October-November ginkgo leaves yellow;
· Transportation: 40 minutes by car from Yellowstone (navigate "Shangfeng Jiuguqi Village", parking is free); take a taxi from Daye city for $15, the driver can tell you which ancient tree has the most story.
· Egg: On the first and fifteenth day of every month, the Feng Clan will hold an ancestor worship ceremony. Visitors can watch and see villagers in ancient costumes performing ancient rituals, like a living historical drama.