Road to Lhasa: The Romantic Wilderness of 318 (Part 3)
Day 13: Golmud – The vast and romantic northwest wilderness
Crossing the uninhabited zone of Hoh Xil and climbing over the Kunlun Pass, surprises kept coming. Searching for Tibetan antelopes along the way was both joyful and exhausting. I kept my eyes fixed on the distance, afraid of missing any antelope or scenic view. Hoh Xil is very flat, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, and there are still many Tibetan antelopes. I kept shouting excitedly, ignoring altitude sickness, snapping photos like a child. After crossing Kunlun Pass, the scenery changed dramatically. At first, the barren hills seemed desolate, but on closer look, they were indescribably beautiful. Each hill had its own character—brown, yellow, or red—with rich colors. The rain had carved unique patterns into the hills, creating a stunning sight. In short, the scenery of Hoh Xil and Kunlun Pass rivals that of 318, each with its own charm and breathtaking views. At 5:30 PM, we checked into Xinglong Building Hotel. The conditions were good, but surprisingly, there was no air conditioning. According to locals in Golmud, they never use air conditioning—such a different way of life.
Dinner was a barbecue feast, very rich and affordable, and the taste was good. After dinner, back at the hotel, my husband accidentally left his phone in the Didi car. Fortunately, we noticed in time. After calling, the driver quickly returned it to us. We are grateful for the driver’s kindness and praise the simple and honest spirit of Golmud.
Day 14: Jiuzhi – Clean and healing wilderness
From Golmud to Jiuzhi, a total of 790 km, passing the Jingzang Expressway and then the Dema Expressway, the first day of long-distance driving. I only drove 110 km, so our expert driver worked hard. Driving on Jingzang Expressway was smooth and enjoyable, with no speed limits, good roads, and few cars. But the Dema Expressway was worse, with poor road conditions, many corrugated sections, speed limits of 60–80, making driving nerve-wracking. The scenery along the way remained beautiful. A highlight was Donggecuona Lake, surrounded by mountains, with deep blue water. Clouds gently skimmed the lake surface, and seagulls flew over the sparkling water. We kept feeding the seagulls, feeling extremely happy. We also unexpectedly came across a sea of purple flowers, a delightful surprise.
At 5:50 PM, we checked into Jiuzhi Nianbaozun Hotel. Upon entering the room, we saw all solid wood furniture. The simple and understated decor was exactly our style, and our fondness for the hotel quickly grew. Dinner was rich and delicious, especially the beef and beef offal hot pot, flavorful and warming, ending a hard but happy day with a tasty meal.
Day 15: Lianbaoyuze – The dreamlike stone city
Today’s breakfast was very hearty, with delicious beef dumplings and beef noodles. The people of Jiuzhi are so sincere and honest; we like their straightforwardness. After breakfast, we officially said goodbye to our teammates. Traveling together was fate, caring for each other was affection, and overall it was a pleasant trip.
After parting ways, we started our solo vacation mode. I really enjoy this alone time. Today’s theme was to explore Lianbaoyuze, a magical stone city. The moment we entered the scenic area, it felt like stepping into another world. Stone mountains of various shapes stood prominently before me, sparking my imagination. Lifeless stones come alive when people give them stories and spirit. In this vast city, I seemed to see an ancient castle from thousands of years ago, reflecting the lives of people back then—joyful or sorrowful, the heroic guards protecting the castle after battles, lovers cherishing each other, or monks rejoicing after a long journey to obtain treasured scriptures. It was a world we can never truly reach, yet a beautiful moment in time.
During the visit, we met a friendly monk and were lucky to take a photo with him. I am grateful for his kindness. Even more fortunate was meeting a kind old woman. When our eyes met, joy welled up naturally, and we hugged without thinking. I was moved by her genuine smile and heartfelt Tashi Delek.
Lagaer Lake, the sacred lake. This was the place we stayed the longest. The water was clear and transparent, a gentle breeze blowing, and the bright sun shining through the water, creating an indescribable feeling. Walking around the lake, I deeply felt the charm and purity of the sacred lake. Looking at the pure water and the vibrant stone mountains around, my heart opened wide. Life is a journey of cultivation; no need to force it, just go with the flow.
Today was the day I felt the most amazed and happiest—amazed by the beauty, the sacred lake, and the indescribable stories of the stone city. I simply love the natural atmosphere and the sacred lake’s water that calms the restless heart, allowing us to settle down and face life’s troubles calmly.
We finished exploring the stone city at 5 PM. After leaving the scenic area, we smoothly checked into Lianhuayuan Hotel, a very distinctive resort. Dinner was beef hot pot, which tasted good. After dinner, we strolled the streets of Aba County. The cool breeze blew gently. Although the streets were a bit messy, it didn’t affect the day’s happiness. We even got the barley we wanted and unexpectedly found my favorite barley cakes. It was a perfect day.
Day 16: Gergou – Hot springs to relieve fatigue
The hotel didn’t provide breakfast, so we casually walked into a street-side Aying snack shop. Beef offal soup, soup dumplings, eggs, soy milk, and the shop’s homemade side dishes, especially the pickled hot peppers, were delicious. The only downside was the soy milk was a bit thin.
After breakfast, we visited Gerdeng Temple. The temple was quite large but felt a bit chaotic. However, I have always admired and respected their sincere faith, so no matter their lifestyle, it doesn’t affect my respect for them.
Next, we headed to a hidden paradise we found online—Shenzuo Village. After a bumpy ride, we finally arrived. It was nothing like we imagined, just a modern small village built up. Disappointed, we quickly took a few photos and then drove to today’s destination, Gergou.
Leaving the village road, we passed G248 and then turned onto G317. Along the way, colorful and vast grasslands, dense forests, and a small river following us added spirit to the scenery. I couldn’t help but admire that Sichuan’s climate and soil are still the most nurturing. At 4 PM, we checked into Xikang·Ya Hot Spring Hotel in Gergou, a nice hotel. Soaking in the hot springs relieved the fatigue from days of travel.
Day 17: Dazhou – The call of home
The last day of the trip and the day to go home. A little excited, a little thrilled. After being away for so long, I really miss home. The flowers and plants on the balcony, the little toys on the sofa, and the jar of pickles my mom left behind... all seem to be calling me: home, home. We left promptly at 8 AM, heading straight from Gergou onto the highway back to Dazhou, arriving safely at Sauna Dazhou at 4 PM.
This self-driving trip to Tibet took us over mountains and valleys to the place we longed for. We saw snow-capped peaks standing silently, clear lakes, and vast plateaus. We met devoted monks, kind old women, and friendly companions. I recall what the Jiazhuo Living Buddha said: everything is the best arrangement. All encounters and farewells, storms and clear skies on life’s journey are destined. Don’t argue about compassion or wisdom. Sadness is instinctive, but happiness is a skill to cultivate. No need to cling to the past or worry about the future. Calm your mind to appreciate the scenery before you and cherish the present moment—that is the best way to live. Keep tolerance and gratitude in your heart, and the road ahead will be filled with gentle sunshine.