Taihang Stone City, glowing at night
Dawa Village: A stone city deep in the Taihang Mountains, see a 500-year-old stone bridge by day and wait for 13,000 lights to light up the night
As soon as I parked the car at the village entrance’s free parking lot, Uncle Wang, who guards the viewing platform, shouted, “Perfect timing! Wait another two hours, and the stones will shine like gold.” He was pointing to the mountain hollow where the entire village is built from stones—stone houses, stone alleys, stone mills, even the cracks in the walls are stuffed with small stones. The most eye-catching is the Ming Dynasty stone bridge, its stone arch curved like a rainbow. Uncle Wang said that back then, without steel or cement, the stones held each other tightly, “It’s been 500 years, and even mountain floods can’t wash it away.”
🪨 The stones “speak” during the day
Hidden in the cracks of the stone bridge is a secret of mechanics. Leaning on the bridge railing, every stone is cut squarely, and the “silver ingot locks” at the corners tightly bite the adjacent stones. Uncle Wang tapped the arch top with his hand: “Listen to that sound, it’s hollow! The ancients deliberately left gaps so the floodwaters could breathe, just like leaving a slit when holding your breath.” The stone piers under the bridge are worn with pits and hollows by time, and one stone still bears a faint handprint, “That’s the bridge builder’s, who pressed here to set the position—pressed once, and it lasts 500 years.”
The walls of the stone houses are like an encyclopedia of stones. The old houses in the village use large bluestones at the base (to prevent moisture), shale for the waist walls (lightweight), and slab stones on the roof (slippery, so snow doesn’t accumulate). The owner of the “Good Persimmon Flower Inn” pointed to her wall: “See the colors of these stones? The red ones are Taihang red, the blue ones are limestone. Building the house was like stacking blocks—if one stone was out of place, it wouldn’t stand.” The stone mill in the courtyard has been turned into a tea table, with old grain husks stuck in the grinding teeth gaps, rough enough to leave marks when touched.
The stone alley’s path hides wisdom for climbing slopes. The stone slab road through the village slopes upward, with shallow stone grooves every few steps. Uncle Wang said these are “anti-slip grooves,” “Back then, porters carrying goods would slip when their straw sandals got wet with dew, so carving grooves made it stable.” A girl in Hanfu was lifting her skirt to walk uphill, her heels tapping loudly on the stone slabs, her shadow stretched long by the sunlight, pressed against the stone wall like a moving painting.
🏮 The stones “glow” at night
At 5:40 PM, the first light lit up at the foot of the mountain. Warm yellow light first appeared around the stone mill at the village entrance, then the outline lights of the stone alley lit up one by one, like someone running through the alley with lanterns. Uncle Wang squatted by the viewing platform counting: “Don’t rush, there are 13,000 lights, they have to climb from bottom to top, like the stones have legs.”
At 6:00 PM, the whole mountain suddenly “exploded.” The moment the last light lit up on the stone house at the mountain top, the pitch-black canyon was sprinkled with golden powder—the stone bridge’s arch became a glowing necklace, the flying eaves of the stone houses were edged in gold, even the cracks in the stone walls shone. The girl in Hanfu stood on the stone bridge, her clothes fluttering in the mountain wind, the light flowing from behind her, casting her shadow on the glowing bridge surface, like stepping into a fairy tale castle.
The stones “breathe” late at night. In the inn’s courtyard, the stone slab ground still held the day’s warmth. The owner brought out sour jujube juice from the Taihang Mountains, “Listen, there are insects chirping in the stone cracks. People in the mountains used to tell time by this sound.” Looking up, the lit stone houses stood out against the dark mountain shadows like stars fallen to earth, and the stone bridge was leaking light into the bridge hole, forming a blinking circle at the valley bottom.
Practical Guide
· Transportation: 1.5 hours by car from Handan (take Qinglan Expressway then General Avenue, navigate to “Dawa Village,” free parking at village entrance); 40 minutes by car from She County town; from Handan West Bus Station take a bus to She County (about 1.5 hours, 20 RMB/person), then transfer to a local minivan to the village (15 RMB).
· Costs: Free admission; inns 400-600 RMB/night (“Good Persimmon Flower Inn” has a courtyard and includes breakfast); sour jujube juice 5 RMB/cup (freshly squeezed by an auntie at the village entrance); accommodation in She County town 100-150 RMB/night (recommended “Wa Huang Gong Inn,” where you can eat stone pot stewed chicken).
· Must-do list: 1. Lighting time: Arrive before 5:30 PM to secure the best spot on the viewing platform to capture the entire process of lights “climbing” from the foot to the top of the mountain. Time-lapse photography can capture the magical awakening of the stone city.
2. Stone bridge details: During the day, photograph the “silver ingot locks” of the Ming Dynasty stone bridge. Get close to the stone cracks to see the precise stone joints. Including Uncle Wang’s hand in the shot adds a sense of history.
3. Hanfu night scene: Wear light-colored Hanfu and stand on the stone bridge or in the stone alley. Have a companion shoot from below to outline your figure with the lights, with glowing stone houses in the background. The lights are brightest after 8:00 PM.
- Friendly reminders: Lighting times vary with sunset (about 7:00 PM in summer, 5:30 PM in winter). Check the weather in advance; lights reflecting on wet stone slabs in rain are even more magical. The mountain has a big temperature difference between day and night, so bring a light jacket even in summer. For empty shots, choose weekdays as weekends are crowded. Don’t touch the light wires on the stone walls; Uncle Wang says “the stones are ticklish.”
When leaving, Uncle Wang was still packing up stools at the viewing platform. The car lights swept through the stone alley, the light dancing on the stone slabs like chasing after the lights that hadn’t gone out. The inn owner stood at the door waving, her shadow stretched long by the light, pressed against the stone wall, like leaving a gentle footnote for this city. Suddenly I understood—the stones of Taihang have been hard for billions of years, yet through human ingenuity, they show strength by day and softness by night. This is probably the most touching blend of toughness and tenderness.
Have you seen a place with the biggest contrast between day and night? Is it stones turning to gold, or the ordinary turning magical? Share your thoughts in the comments~