Qingyang is beautiful, but I don't recommend going in September–October to suffer. Just got back from Qingyang, and the aftereffects are strong.
It's not because of the beauty, but because it's so dry, sunny, and windy that you'll practically turn into a local specialty of the Loess Plateau. Take my advice: this guide might save at least one person. 🚨
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🚗 Regarding location and transportation, prepare yourself mentally
Qingyang is in the easternmost part of Gansu, known as the "Number One Loess Tableland in the World." High-speed rail goes to Qingyang West Station; it's over an hour from Xi'an and 2.5 hours from Lanzhou. Sounds convenient, right? The problem is "after you arrive"—the attractions are extremely scattered. It takes 40 minutes from Xifeng District to Qingcheng, and 1.5 to 2 hours to Nanliang.
Avoid this pitfall: don't count on ride-hailing services to get to suburban attractions. You won't be able to get a ride back from places like the North Grotto Temple. Arrange a chartered car or rent a car in advance. A 3-day car charter costs about 300–400.
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🥢 A carb bomb on the Loess Plateau, your stomach won't be enough
Qingyang's wheat-based dishes are truly impressive, but don't get too excited just yet.
For clear-broth lamb, look for the breakfast shops on Xifeng Old Street with steam rising; don't eat on the commercial street. A bowl of lamb with guokui flatbread is the soul of the meal. Huanxian lamb has no gamey taste and is fatty but not greasy; stewed or steamed is the best way to preserve its fresh sweetness. Heluo noodles are the lifeblood of Qingyang people. Selected as a provincial intangible cultural heritage in 2024, you must eat them freshly pressed by a master on the street—the sour and spicy taste will keep you slurping non-stop.
The earthen hot pot portions are extremely hearty, with radish, cabbage, and vermicelli at the bottom, topped with pork belly, ribs, and meatballs. A small pot is definitely too much for 2 people. Then there's Qingyang Saozi noodles, which emphasize being "thin, chewy, smooth, hot, thin soup, oily, sour, spicy, and fragrant," served with a topping of 10 ingredients—full of ritual.
Also, the brown sugar and yellow rice steamed rice is sticky, glutinous, and sweet, and it's the biggest surprise on the table. You can find it at Qingyang Fancai Steamed Bowl Heritage Restaurant.
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🏠 Don't fall into traps with accommodation; cave dwelling homestays are worth a try once
Xifeng District is the core area, with convenient transportation and the most concentrated food options, making it the most worry-free place to stay. If you want a unique experience, Fenghuang Yuanshe Homestay is located in the heart of Dongzhi Tableland. It retains the traditional cave dwelling form and is a national Grade A homestay. The loess tableland landscape and the Puhe River flow together. Picking fruits in autumn and watching the stars on the tableland—staying a night is truly atmospheric. You can stay in Nanliang Town if you want an in-depth experience of red culture, but the facilities are relatively basic.
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🚶♀️ A 3-day, 2-night itinerary, don't rush
Day 1: Xifeng cultural line
In the morning, go to the Qingyang Museum. The Yellow River ancient elephant fossils and the "three intangible cultural heritage wonders"—sachets, paper-cutting, and shadow puppetry—are worth seeing. In the afternoon, head to the North Grotto Temple, one of the 4 major grottoes in Gansu, excavated in the second year of Yongping of the Northern Wei Dynasty. The 8.7-meter giant Buddha statue in Cave 165 and the panoramic view of the Puhe River valley are incredibly photogenic. Note: Admission is 30, closed on Mondays, and requires real-name reservation in advance. In the evening, go to Zhouzu Square. The 30-meter-high statue of Buzhu paired with the reflection of the antique red corridor bridge makes for easy, stylish photos.
Day 2: Qingcheng + Longxi valley
In the morning, visit Zhouzuling Forest Park, the mausoleum of the Zhou ancestor Buzhu and the birthplace of Chinese agricultural civilization. Climb to the top to overlook Dongzhi Tableland. In the afternoon, go to Longxi Valley, the "Little Zhangjiajie" of the Northwest. The crimson canyon winds like a dragon, with a 1,000-meter suspended walkway and the "line of sky" wonder. Sunlight spills into the canyon walls, refracting a flame-like luster. In the evening, go to Yaowangdong Wellness Town for the loess cave folk street and intangible cultural heritage shadow puppetry. The night view is best from 7:00 PM to 10:30 PM.
Day 3: Slow life on the tableland
In the morning, go for a rural hike on Dongzhi Tableland to see the golden color of the 10,000 acres of wheat fields after the autumn harvest, and see the waterfall at Puhe River—the Loess Plateau has water scenery too. In the afternoon, find a farmhouse on the edge of the tableland, eat an authentic earthen hot pot, and watch the sunset dye the tableland gold. If you have time, the ancient path of the Qin Straight Road in Ziwuling is worth a walk. It's Qin Shi Huang's "ancient highway," and the forest is colorful with autumn leaves.
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📸 Photo spots, wearing the right colors is important
In Longxi Valley, wear solid-colored clothes to contrast with the red rock walls. Stand at the corner of the walkway to capture the depth of the canyon, and take low-angle shots of the "line of sky" light cracks. At Zhouzu Square, take low-angle shots of the statue against the blue sky, use symmetrical composition for the corridor bridge reflection, and wear light colors to pose in front of the flower sea. The night view after 6:00 PM is even better. At the Wanfo Pagoda in Jiaozhachuan, the soft sunset light in the evening wraps around the pagoda body. The stone bricks come with a built-in retro filter, and the lake below perfectly reflects the ancient pagoda—the original photos are great without editing.
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⚠️ Don't fall into these traps; they are all blood and tears
First, be ruthless with sun protection. The UV rays on the tableland are ridiculously strong. Don't think it's fine just because it's autumn. Use high-SPF sunscreen and wear a hat, or you'll come back 3 shades darker. Second, skin hydration is a lifesaver. The Loess Plateau is so dry that your lips will crack. Carry lip balm and moisturizing spray with you; even applying a face mask back at the hotel at night won't save you.
Third, don't schedule museums and grottoes on Mondays. Places like the North Grotto Temple and the Nanliang Memorial Hall are mostly closed on Mondays. You'll be devastated if you make the trip for nothing. Fourth, there is a large temperature difference between morning and evening. Wear short sleeves at noon, but add a light jacket in the morning and evening. The Ziwuling forest area is even cooler. Fifth, don't buy sachets randomly on the street. For authentic intangible cultural heritage embroidery, go to the Xifeng Folk Art Museum. Street vendors have messy sources and uneven quality. Sixth, be careful ordering hot pot if there are few people. The portions are so large you'll doubt your life; 2 people can't even finish a small pot. Don't let your eyes be bigger than your stomach.
Seventh, be careful entering deep into Longxi Valley during the rainy season. The ice cave area is prone to landslides after rain; don't go into dangerous areas just for photos. Eighth, be careful of steep and slippery roads when driving. The Dongzhi Tableland has a unique landscape; the roads down the tableland are steep and slippery after rain. Don't be blindly confident.
Ninth, don't pack your itinerary too full. The attractions are far apart, and if you visit 3 places in 1 day, you'll basically be on the road the whole time. It is recommended to visit at most 2 core attractions a day to relax and enjoy it properly. Tenth, keep a calm mindset. Qingyang is not that kind of refined tourist city. Imperfect service, average road conditions, and old facilities are the norm, but the magnificence of the Loess Tableland and the atmosphere of daily life in the cave dwellings are things you can't get anywhere else.
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💬 Qingyang in September–October has crisp autumn air and a harvest of apples and daylilies, and the light and shadows are truly excellent, but it is also truly dry, sunny, windy, and far away. If you can accept being dusty and windblown on the Loess Tableland, then the thousand-year-old grottoes, cave dwelling hot pot, and sunsets on the tableland here will not disappoint you.