Zavratnica is a 900 m narrow inlet below Velebit, near Jablanac — €5 entry (Velebit Nature Park, cas
#easytravelpost Zavratnica is a 900 m narrow inlet below Velebit, near Jablanac — €5 entry (Velebit Nature Park, cash or card at the booth, 2026), 15–20 min walk from Jablanac on the coastal path. The mossy half is the 300 m of Aleppo-pine and hop-hornbeam lane above the inlet's north arm where Hypnum pads the limestone rubble and the sea spray keeps it green even in August. I took the Rijeka→Jablanac bus (€12, 2 hrs, cash), walked in at 8 a.m. in June — before 10 a.m. the inlet is empty; by 11 the Rab boats arrive.
The path passes a short tunnel, then the WW2 Siebel-ferry wreck is visible snorkeling in 3 m water. The moss lives on the shaded north lane 100 m above the water where a spring crosses the track.
Mistake: I came at 1 p.m. in July — no shade on the Jablanac path, 34°C, moss grey, inlet packed with 3 boat groups, 20 min and out. 8 a.m. Second mistake: I climbed the Velebit scree "for a viewpoint" — park ranger: "Zavratnica is the inlet zone, €80 fine for off-path on the nature-park slope, stay on the lane". Third: I expected card at the Jablanac konoba — €6.50 sardina u peći, cash only, had card, walked to the booth ATM (€3 fee).
Buy in Jablanac: a €5.50 sir i vrhnje sandwich, not the €18 inlet café. Gear: 2 L water, €50 shoes (grip for limestone), €20 shell.
Local rule: €5 entry card/cash, no swimming off the wreck (snorkel only), dog leashed, no drone (nature park), stay on the lane, the limestone rubble is Velebit scree not a seat. The moss on the pine root is the Adriatic spray's catch — step on cut stone.
Opinion: Zavratnica is the €5 inlet with a WW2 wreck most Dalmatian-coast tourists drive past for Plitvice, and the mossy pine lane above the north arm is the 5-min half with zero boat-crowd. Should Velebit NP add a €1 honour box at Jablanac for lane-board, or keep the €5 flat? I'd add it. Would you bus 2 hrs from Rijeka for a mossy pine lane above a 900 m wreck-inlet?