Ecuador Sangay Laguna Sardinas Cliff Mossy Cloud Forest
#easytravelpost Sangay National Park is huge and roadless on the western side, but Laguna Sardinas is the accessible tarn above the Río Upano, reached from Alao village (Avenue of the Volcanoes side). I busbed Quito→Riobamba (Terminal Riobamba, $4, 3 h, card ok), Riobamba→Alao colectivo (2 h, $3 cash), slept at Alao community house ($8 cash, no card), and started at 4:30 am on the 11 km trail to Sardinas at 3,400 m. First 5 km is cloud forest—moss on trunks so deep it peels like velvet, bromeliads at eye level, a spectacled bear print in the mud at 2,900 m (I backed off the ridge, correct call alone).
The lake is a glacial tarn under a 300 m cliff of Sangay's old lava, moss dripping off the lip. No fee, but Alao asks you to register and hire a guide ($15/day, split groups) because the bear zone is real—I skipped the guide, regretted it at the print, hired a kid with a slingshot for the last 2 km back. Payment: Riobamba card, everything past it cash. Carry 3.5 L, boil the lake water.
Kindness: the Alao cook gave me a fist of toasted maize and said "the bear smells fear, not maize."
If a UNESCO park can't staff a bear zone, should solo hikers be banned, or just blessed with maize?