Mestia trek | Discover the hidden world in the heart of the Caucasus
· Upper Svaneti (Zemo Svaneti), a hidden gem in the Caucasus Mountains. Snow-capped mountains piercing the clouds, rushing rivers, majestic and beautiful valleys, flower-filled forests and green meadows, medieval stone villages, and towering ancient Svan towers (stone defensive towers), known as Koshki, tell the unique and untamed story of "the Svans." It's a UNESCO World Heritage site and a world-renowned trekking destination. Here's a practical guide based on my experience!
· Three-day, two-night itinerary: Mestia – Zhabeshi – Adishi – Iprali, then take a car to Ushguli. Roads connect the villages, so the difficulty is up to you. I saw experienced trekkers, carrying dozens of kilograms of gear, moving with ease. For ordinary people like us, large luggage can be transported by vehicle, and we can go hut to hut, only needing to carry some food and drinks on the way.
· Mestia, the gateway to Upper Svaneti, is a one-day drive from Tbilisi and about 5 hours from Kutaisi. It's the starting point for treks, with all necessary amenities for food, lodging, and supplies.
You'll pass through Zugdidi, the capital of the Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti region. The Dadiani princely family, who once ruled Western Georgia for centuries, resided here. The Gothic palace and English garden built in the 19th century are a great place to rest along the way.
There are also flights operated by "Vanilla Air," but it's said you need to grab tickets on their official website a month in advance.
📍June 22, Day 1: Mestia to Zhabeshi. The weather was clear and sunny, with a pleasant breeze and comfortable temperatures.
We departed at 8:27 AM and arrived at the guesthouse around 2:30 PM. My Gudong app recorded 14.58 km, taking 5:53:44, with a cumulative ascent of 622 meters.
The path was not difficult, only requiring physical exertion. There were various places to take breaks along the way. There are supply points in the mountains selling coffee, beer, water, and some snacks, and small coffee shops in the villages.
The scenery was delightful, with wildflowers in full bloom. The mountain villages are mostly located on both sides of the river valley, with the defensive Svan towers (Koshki) being the most striking feature.
📍June 23, Day 2: Zhabeshi to Adishi. Another clear day.
My Gudong app recorded 11.49 km, taking 6:30:29, with an ascent of 902 meters, all within the first 4 km, which was quite physically demanding.
The scenery remained beautiful, with snow-capped mountains ever-present, overlooking the river valley, displaying diverse colors and forms from different angles.
The forests were lush, the water and grass abundant, and the vegetation rich and varied. Alpine meadows, mixed coniferous and broadleaf forests, and tender large-leaf flowers beneath the trees created a vibrant, refreshing green that was very pleasing to the eye. I loved the rhododendrons the most, with three types: yellow below 2,000 meters, and two types of white above, forming the most elegant "lace" for the jungle and mountains.
From Zhabeshi, ascend the mountain and cross the meadow. Do not follow the official signpost; turn left, and you will see a white circular signpost that says "Cafe TETNULDI Adishi." Follow the zigzagging path upwards for about 3.5 km, climbing from 1,700 meters to 2,300 meters, passing through rhododendron thickets, meadows, and streams. After exiting the pine forest, you'll find a small shop by the cable car platform, the only supply point along the way.
📍June 24, Day 3: The group split into two, concluding the trip perfectly.
The brave ones continued forward, challenging the snowline and glaciers. Unburdened, they performed at their best on what is said to be the most difficult section! They departed at 8:00 AM, covered 17 km, and only took 6 hours and 6 minutes, arriving at a small coffee shop just after 2:00 PM, right as a thunderstorm raged outside! Quietly ordering a beer and waiting for the car to pick them up, that sense of immediate, stable happiness resonated within them.
The women's group traveled by car to Ushguli. The bumpy, muddy, and rocky road, winding up and down along the Adishichala River canyon, tossed everyone around! For over 10 km, with two mountains sandwiching a narrow gorge, the roaring sound of the water, accompanied by the rough engine noise of the car, surprisingly evoked a sense of "remote tranquility." Adishi village truly feels "isolated from the world."
· Ushguli, the highest continuously inhabited village in Europe, with its Svan towers and dwellings, preserves the medieval Caucasian style and is the core of the Upper Svaneti World Heritage site.
The village winds uphill along the river valley, with lush green mountains on both sides. The Svan towers stand tall, ancient and weathered. On the highest hill is a 12th-century church. Behind it, Shkhara, Georgia's highest peak, approaches with immense grandeur.
Nature and time together compose a beautiful picture!