7.28 live report from Xi’an, it really collapsed
July in Xi’an is over, not really recommended to squeeze into the main walkway of the Great Tang All Day Mall in July and August to stand in long lines or compete for the spotlight with the roly-poly girl
Who understands the joy of July in Xi’an? I used to think the midsummer heat in Guanzhong would stick my T-shirt to my back, so I carried three tubes of high-SPF sunscreen before daring to go near the old city wall. But hiding in the cool shade of the old locust tree in the back alley of Muslim Street, I realized the refreshing breeze carried the aroma of freshly made cured beef sandwiches into my collar. Even at noon, the walkway by Xingqing Palace Lake was only 27 degrees. The small fan I carried stayed in my backpack the whole time, never taken out. It was much more pleasant than squeezing into crowded popular tourist spots or busy shopping areas. Two people spent 1,080 yuan for 3 days. Before leaving, I stuffed two big bags of handmade pomegranate soft candy from the old lady at Sajinqiao into my backpack. An old friend who loves exploring deserted ancient villages asked if I would rent a small courtyard at the foot of Qinling Mountains for half a month next month. We followed a local uncle who has been driving a tricycle for 30 years toward the foot of Zhongnan Mountain, looking for the pale purple wild alfalfa flowers on the gentle slope 🥹
🌾 super detailed relaxed travel route, no rushing or crowded check-ins, leave at 9 AM every day to avoid the midday sun:
Day 1: After landing, head straight to the old alley at Sajinqiao to eat a cured beef sandwich with freshly fried oil cake. The marinated aroma wrapped in crispy crust melts on the tongue. In the afternoon, stroll slowly along the walkway by the Xi’an city wall, watch local uncles selling freshly picked Qinling peaches by the roadside, wait for sunset to turn the moat water into warm gold. The old lady pushing a cart sells icy hawthorn soup, sour, sweet, and refreshing, hitting the top of your head.
Day 2: Sleep in until 10 AM, then walk the gentle path behind Chongyang Palace in Huyi District. Avoid the crowds of tour groups at Zhongnan Mountain Village by taking the side road through the old ginkgo forest. Yellow wild pumpkin flowers brush against canvas shoes, leaving fine pollen. At noon, eat gourd chicken at the village entrance’s old restaurant. Crispy outside, tender inside, soaked in spices, the more you chew, the more satisfying. In the evening, stand at the Feng River viewing platform and wait for the clouds to clear. The wind sweeps through the reeds, carrying the fresh scent of grass onto your face.
Day 3: Wander to Daiwang old village near Lintong, with less than half the crowd of the Terracotta Warriors core area. Follow the century-old Qin-style alley to the Wei River, the scent of cattail mixed with cool breeze brushes your face. Lounge outside the old Fu tea shop to enjoy the breeze, then head back to the city as dusk falls. At the alley entrance, freshly steamed jujube paste porridge still emits a soft jujube fragrance.
🚌 transportation tips: Taking the high-speed train to Xi’an North Station is the most convenient for out-of-towners. Attractions are scattered around the old city and suburbs. If driving, take the Guanzhong ring road and park at the small, free spots near the city wall, saving more than half the cost compared to crowded paid parking lots in the core scenic areas. Without a car, use the Chang’an Pass to take suburban minibuses. Shared rides cost about 15 yuan per person and go directly to the Chongyang Palace back mountain entrance. After rain, the ancient alleys’ bluestone slabs are covered with moss. Wear non-slip cloth shoes and avoid running on mossy paths near walls to prevent slipping and twisting your ankle.
🎫 ticket booking: The outer city wall walkway and Sajinqiao are free. Buy the Terracotta Warriors combo ticket online one day in advance to save 20 yuan compared to buying on-site. Spend 22 yuan to hire a retired local cultural guide to tell old stories about early Chang’an archaeology, which is much more interesting than dry electronic guides.
🍜 local must-eats: Start with freshly fried spicy garlic lamb blood on the street, tender and fresh with a strong garlic aroma that’s addictive. For the main meal, order a pork knuckle with bone, fatty but not greasy, wrapped in old marinade aroma, very satisfying to chew. Cool down with chilled fermented glutinous rice balls, sweet and fragrant, perfect for beating the heat. End the night at the market with charcoal-grilled tender tendon skewers sprinkled with Qin pepper powder, the more you eat, the more addictive.
⚠️ avoid pitfalls: Random afternoon showers in July. Carry a thin quick-dry sun-protective jacket. Avoid wearing white mesh shoes in muddy alleys; yellow stains are hard to remove. The temperature difference at the foot of Qinling Mountains can be nearly 10 degrees between day and night. When waiting for the All Day Mall lights to come on, don’t wear only a short-sleeve shirt in the wind, or you’ll shiver and miss the moment when golden lights fill the sky.
📸 photo spots: At 7 PM, stand at a quiet corner of the city wall to frame the Big Wild Goose Pagoda’s flying eaves and flowing orange sunset clouds from a low angle. Wear light, plain cotton-linen clothes for photos that need no editing. Take photos at Daiwang ancient village alley at 5 PM, where scattered golden light filters through old locust trees onto bluestone slabs, fully capturing the atmosphere of the Tang dynasty old city.
No squeezing into the main performance area for 2 hours to grab a spot, just the slow, relaxed vibe of Xi’an’s old city life. Next July, I’ll come back to the shady spot by the city wall to wait for freshly baked cured beef sandwiches with crispy outside and tender inside sauce-soaked meat 😌