Between Sky and Water: Two Monasteries, Two Characters

There are two monasteries on the shores of Lake Sevan. But while Sevanavank is a picture-postcard Armenia with crowds and rows of souvenirs, Hayravank is a place to relax. And frankly, the latter is more worth the time. Sevanavank: A Beautiful, but Difficult Climb The monastery stands on a peninsula (it used to be an island), and a long staircase—about 230 steps—leads to it. Once at the top, the view opens up: the lake basin, mountains on the horizon, and the wind. The monastery's founding is associated with Gregory the Illuminator (305), but the surviving churches of Surb Arakelots and Surb Astvatsatsin were built in 874 by Princess Mariam. These are austere cross-in-square churches of black basalt with domes of rusty-brown tuff. Sevanavank was an important spiritual and educational center: it housed a school, and in the 15th century, an academy comparable to Tatev University. But today, it's the most visited monastery on the lake: parking at the bottom, stalls selling souvenirs and sweets, and guided groups at the top. And the main thing, something guidebooks often fail to mention, is the climb up the steps. About 230 steps in the open sun, without shade, with scorching stone underfoot. In the heat, this isn't a "beautiful entrance"; it's a physical strain—especially difficult for the elderly, those with knee problems, and those with children. If you're traveling in July or August, it's best to arrive early in the morning or late in the evening. Hayravank: Quieter, Older, More Humane Hayravank is located on the western shore, south of Sevanavank, and the climb itself sets a different mood. The monastery stands on a rocky outcrop, offering a wider and more intimate view of the lake. The main church dates back to the 9th-10th centuries; the narthex (gavit) was added later, in the 12th-13th centuries. The walls are made of rough stone and are overgrown with lichen, giving the complex an older and wilder appearance than the well-kept Sevanavank. The name "Hayravank" is often translated as "cave monastery"—according to legend, it was connected by an underground passage to the nearby Spitak Berd fortress. Another story concerns the monk Hovhan, who, according to legend, saved people from Tamerlane by turning them into doves (hence the second name, Mardakhavnyats). Scattered around the monastery are old khachkars and tombstones, and beyond the fence are the ruins of cells. There's no bustle here: you can sit on a stone by the wall and simply gaze at the water. What to choose Sevanavank is a must-see, but honestly: it's a steep climb up a mountain, and on a hot day it's challenging. If you're unsure of your strength or are traveling at midday in the summer, it's better to arrive in the morning or evening. Hayravank is more humane in this regard: it stands on a low cliff right by the water, the climb is short, and even in the heat, you don't "climb" but simply ascend a few meters. Plus, the surrounding area is quiet, with old khachkars (cross-stones) and no pushy vendors. If you're looking for a more intimate experience and less fatigue, Hayravank wins on both counts. Sevanavank is worth seeing at least once, but Hayravank is a place you'll want to return to. #armenia #ozerosevan #Hayravank #sevanavank