Elegant Famous Mountain, Zen in Landscape

Travelogue of Doufang Mountain by Bailian River In early summer, I drove to Bailian Town in Xishui County to visit the elegant famous mountain Doufang Mountain, which stands alongside the largest reservoir in eastern Hubei—the Bailian River Reservoir. This national 3A-level tourist attraction is renowned not only for its unique "dou-shaped" mountain terrain but also for its millennium-old Zen temple, strange pines, peculiar rocks, and vast lake scenery, making it a hidden gem. Arriving at the mountain gate, a sturdy stone archway stood solemnly before me. The four characters "Yuanjue Zen Temple" were simple yet dignified, instantly isolating the worldly noise behind. Following the newly built winding mountain road upward, the trees on both sides grew denser, and the breeze rustled through the leaves, carrying the fresh scent of grass and wood, calming my heart. Climbing the steps, the path meandered among ancient pines and cypresses. The pines of Doufang Mountain are exceptional; many root in rock crevices, tall and straight, with elegant needles, forming a resilient and beautiful landscape. Along the way, strange rocks stood in various shapes: the smooth and rounded "Backrest Stone," said to relieve climbing fatigue when touched; the flat "Sobering Stone," which carries the legendary story of Zen Master Foyin and Su Dongpo drinking and discussing Zen here. There are also Penholder Rock, Winding Peach Rock, and Three Lives Rock, all marvels of nature that inspire awe. Reaching the mountainside, the millennium-old Doufang Zen Temple suddenly appeared. With red walls and black tiles, flying eaves and upturned corners, the temple’s name was inscribed by Mr. Zhao Puchu, exuding extraordinary charm. Founded in the Tang Dynasty, the temple was once the residence of the Northern Song Zen Master Foyin, who, along with his close friend Su Dongpo, left many interesting Zen stories here, enriching the temple’s cultural heritage. The Dragon-Subduing Patriarch Hall inside is particularly impressive; it is one of the largest surviving Ming Dynasty stone structures in Hubei Province. The hall is entirely built of granite, with massive stone beams, columns, and pedestals carved with coiled dragon patterns, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship. Even more miraculous is that the stone beam joints inside the hall are not fully closed, and the left stone column is thinner than the right. Legend says this was the work of the Buddha ordering Lu Ban to build it overnight, but the rooster crowing prematurely left it unfinished, adding a layer of mystique. Passing through the temple, I continued climbing. The mountain path grew steeper, with stone steps carved into crevices and ridges of huge rocks. Passing through the antique-style "Doufang Mountain Fortress" stone gate, I finally reached the Fangyun Pavilion at the summit. Looking out from the railing, the view suddenly opened up. Below lay thousands of peaks and valleys, and in the distance, a vast expanse of gray-blue water quietly spread—the vast Bailian River Reservoir, dotted with islands like a giant ink painting. The mountain wind blew fiercely, fluttering my clothes, and the fatigue of climbing was completely washed away by this ultimate openness and serenity. On the way down, you can also visit the Anti-Japanese War cliff inscriptions that remind visitors of the mountain’s patriotic history during the years of conflict. Travel Tips: · Transportation: About a 30-minute drive from Xishui County town, with good road conditions. · Core Experience: Climb to admire strange pines and rocks, visit the millennium-old stone temple, and summit for panoramic views of Bailian River Thousand-Island Lake. · Nearby Attractions: Combine Doufang Mountain with a scenic drive around Bailian River Reservoir and a stop at Zimu Mountain Villa viewing platform for a perfect one-day tour to enjoy the "lake and mountain scenery." After descending, you can visit nearby Changling Street or farmhouses by the Bailian River to taste local specialties like stone pot Bailian fish and fresh stewed pork with green willow. This trip to Doufang Mountain was not only a physical climb but also a spiritual journey of dialogue with history and healing by nature. Touching the millennium-old Zen spirit among strange rocks and ancient temples, and appreciating the grandeur of mountain and water merging in the distant view—this is the unique charm of Doufang Mountain.