Dang'er in Huangyuan: An 800-meter old street, walking through a piece of Tea Horse Road history
The wind in Huangyuan is harsh; hold onto your hat as soon as you get off the car. This place is about 40 kilometers west of Xining. The Huangshui River originates in the county, and the county seat is at an altitude of about 2,600 meters, a bit higher than Xining. For those visiting the plateau for the first time, you might feel a bit breathless if you walk too fast. Just slow down; there's no need to panic.
To the west of Huangyuan is Riyue Mountain, and to the east is the Huangshui River Valley. The Huangshui and Yaoshui rivers converge in the county, and the three gorges—Xishixia, Bayanxia, and Yaoshui Gorge—meet here, making it a historical thoroughfare for entering and leaving Qinghai. Most people come to Huangyuan in winter for Dang'er Ancient City. Dang'er is the old name for Huangyuan, a Mongolian transliteration of the Tibetan "Dongkhor," meaning "white conch." The ancient city is located along the Ming and Qing dynasty old street in the county seat. It was built during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty, dating back over 600 years. The main street is not long, about 800 meters, with several alleys extending from both sides, connecting to the City God Temple, Dang'er Office, Confucian Temple, Fire Ancestor Pavilion, and old foreign trading houses. This city was once a hub for trade: it was situated on the Tang-Tibet Ancient Road and the Southern Silk Road. Tea, fur, and green salt were traded here, with annual transaction volumes once reaching millions of taels of silver, earning it names like "Tea Horse Commercial Capital" and "Little Beijing," making it a trading port in eastern Qinghai.
Among the old buildings, the City God Temple is a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level, and the Fire Ancestor Pavilion is a provincial-level protected site. The City God Temple houses over 10 Qing Dynasty murals depicting old stories like judges presiding over cases, *Romance of the Three Kingdoms*, and *Water Margin*. The colors have faded, but the outlines remain. The Fire Ancestor Pavilion is a pavilion commemorating Emperor Yan, which locals consider a landmark of the ancient city. The street is also decorated with Huangyuan row lanterns, made with sheepskin and embroidered with needle and thread. They light up row by row at night—these row lanterns are a local intangible cultural heritage. The stone-paved road of the old street is uneven, with blue bricks and gray tiles blending together. Walk slowly and watch your step. Shops on both sides sell paper-cutting, embroidery, and aged vinegar, and occasionally, the tunes of "Hua'er" folk songs or traditional musical performances drift out from the doors.
After walking through the old street, head southwest out of the city to Riyue Mountain. Riyue Mountain, anciently known as Chiling (Red Ridge), has a reddish mountain body and serves as the boundary between the monsoon and non-monsoon regions, as well as the agricultural and pastoral regions. There is a monument at the mountain pass, along with the Sun Pavilion and Moon Pavilion. The altitude is around 3,500 meters, higher than the county seat. Legend has it that when Princess Wencheng passed through here on her way to Tibet, she looked back at Chang'an and dropped her Sun and Moon Mirror, which shattered into two mountains—that is how the mountain got its name. At the foot of the mountain flows the Daotang River, which flows westward into Qinghai Lake. Near the mountain pass, there is the Princess Spring and an Ancient Road Museum, displaying old items from the trade route. Standing at the pass, you see fields to the east and pastures to the west. The wind is strong enough to make it hard to stand steady, so don't forget your scarf, hat, and gloves. Do not run or jump when you get here; take it slow. If you have a history of high blood pressure or heart problems, consult your doctor before setting off.
Ten kilometers outside the city is Daheigou, an 8-kilometer-long provincial forest park. In winter, the stream freezes, and the birch trees are covered in frost. If you want to stay for another half day, you can take a trip there. It is quiet in the gully, suitable for strolling and taking photos, but the road is narrow, so drive slowly.
You can find food and accommodation in the county. Huangyuan's sweet and sour pork tenderloin is a famous local dish; it is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, with a delicious sweet and sour flavor, and is one of the dishes in the "Qinghai Old Eight Dishes." Hand-grabbed mutton, yak yogurt, liangpi, and wheat kernel mutton porridge are also common and affordable. The liangpi stalls and steamed bun shops on the street open in the morning; go early to get them hot. There are quite a few hotels and inns in the county. Winter is not the peak season, so rooms are easy to book. The rooms have heating, but it can be dry, so placing a basin of water by the bed before sleeping will make it more comfortable. It only takes 1 hour to drive here from Xining, and the Qinghai-Tibet Railway and National Highways 109 and 315 pass through the county.
The admission tickets for the ancient city and the opening hours of several attractions are subject to change. Ask at the visitor center when you arrive before deciding how to tour. The winter sun on the plateau is harsh, and the reflection from the snow is strong, so bring a pair of sunglasses. The temperature difference between indoors and outdoors is large, so don't rush to take off your clothes when entering or leaving. The sunshine and wind in the county are manageable, but it gets piercingly cold in the morning and evening, so a thick jacket is enough.