"Master, is that really North Korea across the river?"
"Of course, look at the smoke coming from the mountain over there, they're cooking."
I leaned on the guardrail of G331 highway, holding a telescope to look across the river. The narrowest part of the Yalu River is only about a hundred meters wide. Farmers on the North Korean side were driving oxen to plow the hillside, the scene looked at least thirty years behind ours.
The G331 border highway runs from Dandong along the China-North Korea border to Ji'an, then extends westward. This time I only drove the Ji'an section, but it’s enough for me to brag about for a year.
This article will be written differently, organized as "A few things I did in Ji'an."
🔹 Drove along the most beautiful border line on G331
The Ji'an section of G331 runs along the Yalu River, with mountains on the left and the river on the right, and North Korea on the opposite bank.
In July, the vegetation grows wildly, with lush greenery covering both sides of the road, and opening the car window fills the air with the fresh scent of plants.
Some sections pass by barbed wire and border guard posts, don’t stop or take photos, just drive normally.
I drove about 60 kilometers of the best part, and could stop anytime along the river to sit and relax.
🔹 Drifted on Yunfeng Lake for an entire afternoon
Yunfeng Lake is northeast of Ji'an, a reservoir on the Yalu River.
Taking a boat into the lake area, steep canyons on both sides, the water is an unbelievably clear green.
In July, the water volume is abundant, and the boat captain said this is the best time to see it this year.
There’s almost no commercial development, just a boat, water, and green mountains on both sides—so pure it feels unreal.
🔹 Climbed Wunv Peak until I doubted my life choices
The stairs from Yixiantian upwards made my thighs tremble with soreness.
But when I reached the top of Tiannv Peak and looked over the vast forest sea—it was worth it.
In July, Wunv Peak is covered with layers of green—dark green, light green, yellow-green, ink green—blanketing the entire mountain.
On the way down, I took another path passing a group of waterfalls, the water flow was small but winding and delicate, perfect for a slow walk.
My mom just messaged asking if I went wild again, I replied "In a meeting."
🔹 Entered the Goguryeo mural tombs
This must be said separately—it was so stunning.
The murals in the Changchuan No.1 tomb in Ji'an depict acrobatics, dancing, and music from 1600 years ago.
The colors are so vivid you’d think they were painted just a few years ago, but carbon-14 dating confirms they are from the 4th-5th century AD.
It’s rightly called the "Dunhuang of Northeast Asia."
⚠️ Some mural tombs require reservations and are not open year-round, check before you go.
🔹 Spent a night at Ji'an night market
The night market next to Dajita Square, with the smoke from grilled skewers and beer foam as standard.
People in Ji'an really come out to live at night—bringing their families, setting up small tables, grilling meat, fish, and cold noodles.
The Korean-style brazier is a must-order, with a cast iron pan piled high with various meats and vegetables, charcoal fire underneath sizzling with oil.
Follow it with a glass of locally produced Ji'an ice wine, a 22°C summer night, just the right amount of tipsy.
🔹 Rushed to the morning market at dawn to grab the first pot of rice wine
The Ji'an morning market opens at 3 a.m., which still feels unbelievable to me.
But locals really go at 3 a.m.
When I arrived at 4:30 a.m., it was already packed.
The Korean ethnic rice wine is freshly brewed, warm, slightly sweet and sour, one bowl warms you from the inside out.
I also bought ginseng, pine nuts, and dried white peaches, almost couldn’t fit them in my suitcase.
❗ Travel tips
🚗 Strongly recommend self-driving, the scenery along G331 is the highlight
🆔 Always carry your ID in border areas
📶 Near the border, your phone may pick up North Korean signals, turn off data roaming
🌡️ July daytime temperature 22-26°C, it’s windy by the river, bring a jacket
💰 About 2000-3000 RMB per person for 3 days (excluding major transportation)
Accommodation
🏨 Xiangzhou Garden Hotel (Ji'an Yalu River Branch)
The riverfront view faces the silhouette of the North Korean mountains, the heated pool and free gym are above standard for a small border town, and the light show at Dajita Square can be enjoyed from the balcony with a VIP perspective.
🏨 Ji'an Yalu River Valley Hotel
A hotel in a winery, surrounded by vineyards and river valleys, six kilometers from the city center, which is actually an advantage—at night it’s so quiet you only hear insects and water, perfect for complete relaxation.
🏨 Ji'an Heyue Hotel
The most spacious rooms among high-end city hotels, incredibly quiet at night, family rooms with slides are a joy for kids, and the laundry room is very practical for trips longer than three days.
🏨 Ji'an Huaming Holiday Hotel
The morning market, night market, and Yalu River are all within walking distance, location is the biggest selling point, the retro photo style is highly photogenic, and the café is perfect for a lazy afternoon.
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