CCHINnnnnAn absolutely secluded retreat:
True to its name, Jiushan is a top choice for escaping the world. When they picked me up to go up the mountain, we turned off the national road onto a very small and narrow path. The owner explained that he had to get permission from every villager along the way to build it, and it immediately felt very hidden and mysterious, yet also strangely welcoming.
While not completely surrounded by the nine sacred mountains of Jiuzhaigou, the guesthouse lobby and rooms offer an uninterrupted view of continuous mountain ranges right in front. The scenery changes rapidly with the weather, and simply sitting, lying, or standing and daydreaming, you feel healed by the view. It really is worth staying on the mountain; the scenery is a natural gift that hotels downhill just can't compare to.
When I contacted them in advance, they mentioned upgrading me to a room with floor-to-ceiling windows. It was raining when I arrived, and I ended up in a room called 'Rain' – everything felt perfectly serendipitous. The owner told me that the misty mountain view I saw that day was even rarer than the 'golden mountains in the sun.' I went downstairs and sat under a tent for a while, quietly listening to the rain and bird songs, taking deep breaths of fresh air – it felt like a full body cleanse. Sure enough, the next day, after clear skies, the scenery was completely different, offering an experience of peaceful reading in the sunlight.
On the first evening, I only intended to heat up some beef baked buns I'd bought downhill, but I was drawn to the bonfire that had been set up and ended up sitting there for ages. I didn't have my phone, just watched the crackling fire, zoned out, chatted, and even cadged a few beers.
After checking in, I completely forgot about my plans to go down the mountain to other scenic spots. I've often thought that for city dwellers, travel is a process of returning to oneself. We're bombarded with enough information usually, so being able to be alone in an undisturbed place, even just to daydream, is the best possible experience.
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